Food for Thought: Beijing’s top restaurateurs reveal recipe for success


The financial climate might be about as gloomy as this past Thursday's weather, but that didn’t stop Beijing’s brightest entrepreneurs from braving the rain to take part in a round-table forum with three big-league restaurateurs. Gaby Alves (SALT), Bob Boyce (Blue Frog) and Fred Lin (Bellagio) fielded questions in The Bookworm’s library-like seminar room on the do’s and don’ts of epicurial empire-building, in a presentation organized by the Beijing chapter of the Entrepreneurs' Organization.

Though their cuisines and approaches are poles apart, these three food heroes all started small, and cited hard work, a passion for food and a commitment to quality as fundamental to their growth. With Alameda and now SALT under her belt, Gaby recalled selling home-baked bread from the back of her bicycle in Sao Paulo at aged 19. Fred Lin underlined the three ‘r’s - red tape, regulation, and registration. And in his first restaurant in Shanghai 10 years ago, Bob started out selling “iced tea and soft drinks from jam jars ‘cos we couldn’t find glassware big enough.” Today, the broad-shouldered U.S. native boasts 10 restaurants, over 600 staff, and a chef training manual as stacked as one of his Montana BBQ Burgers.


Afterwards over a glass or two of The Bookworm’s very decent Chilean white, the Beijinger grabbed a few words with Gaby and Bob on a topic much closer to our hearts - Chinese food. “Give me hot pot or some Yunnan,” says Gaby enthusiastically, “or Sichuan food and a crate of beer”. A moment after admitting Maison Boulud a Pekin as her favourite ‘other’ restaurant, Gaby confesses a secret love for jian bing. And she’s not the only one. Bob Boyce declares a penchant for the pancake-like street snack too, as well as his favourite Beijing staple - Xinjiang hand-pulled noodles. Caught up in the spirit of confession, even The Bookworm's Alex Pearson owns up as a guilty post-midnight jian bing binger.

So, it seems this town’s F & B insiders are all hooked on these little parcels of doughy goodness - could Philly Cheesesteaks or Pao de Queijo done jian bing style be around the corner?

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Another take on this evening, from Shane Crombie via Beijing Boyce:

http://www.beijingboyce.com/2009/04/29/kitchen-kingpins-three-restauranteurs-talk-about-succeeding-in-beijing/

Quote:
“We learned that Gaby Alves (SALT) was once a pro volleyball player in Brazil and sold bread from the back of a motorcycle, that Fred Lin (Bellagio) grew up in the Pacific island of Guam, worked for his family’s furniture and lighting business, then heard the call of big city life and joined a small restaurant business in China that now has more than 1000 employees, and that Bob Boyce (Blue Frog), who studied Mandarin in the mid-1990s, worked for a moving company in Guangzhou and then ended up in Shanghai where he decided to tackle, on his own terms, the shortage of good Western fare there.

“Opening a restaurant is a high risk venture in any market, and each of the speakers recounted scary moments along the way. After the closing of the Shanghai street on which his first establishment was located, Bob Boyce managed to keep his place open by convincing the police that he was doing a dinner for the British High Commissioner, while Lin remembers the “chicken and egg” challenge of obtaining a business license and safety permit when one was needed to get the other. Meanwhile, Alves had to wait nine months to get her license.

“The 437-kuai question on the night was what each saw as the key to success. Alves mentioned the introduction of a set menu and a focus on quality produce, Lin talked about providing simple Chinese food that “you can’t get mad at”, and Boyce emphasized the role of service with a smile and a focus on the needs of foreigners. It sounds simple, doesnt it? Roll the dice, take a few knocks, and hey, presto, you are a big success. Not so fast.

“What each speaker had in common was a recognition of the overarching role that staff development and training plays in each of their businesses. From Alves providing accommodation for her staff to Lin building a dedicated employee training centre to Boyce developing a phone book-sized training manual, each has invested significant working capital in empowering their employees to succeed. If you want to emulate the success of these culinary pioneers, expect to dedicate yourself every day to the recruitment and retention of great people.

“PS: In case you were wondering, the waittresses at Bellagio have those short haircuts for hygeine reasons, and this extends to the kitchen, where the policy first began, and cleaning staff."

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20