2009 Apr 30 Dining Roundup: May 2009

Spring may be fleeting in Beijing, but signs of the season are everywhere. In markets and on menus are fresh asparagus, cherries, mangoes, mushrooms, peas and pineapples, as well as local vegetables like jicai (aka “shepherd’s purse”), which is often served stir-fried with rice cakes.
Now is prime time for outdoor dining, before the oppressive temperatures chase diners into air-conditioned interiors. Joining the ranks of readers’ favorite alfresco spots – among them Dali Courtyard, Element Fresh, Hazara and Lan Na Thai at Face, Saddle Cantina, Schoolhouse Canteen and Pavillion – are some newer open-air eateries, including the patio at Maison Boulud, terrace at Domus and Sunken Garden at The Opposite House, which will offer Sureño’s new Spring and Summer menu.
Spring is a time for rebirth and new growth, manifestations of which are abundant this year. 25 Degrees at Hotel G has emerged from its chrysalis as Scarlett, a wine bar and contemporary restaurant. The Legation Quarter has been reborn as Ch’ien Men 23. Souk has a new chef named Austin Powers (really). There’s a bounty of new restaurants too, with old favorites like Hatsune, Ganges and Mirch Masala inaugurating new outlets. Hatsune is further branching out with Karaiya Spice House, slated to open in mid-May, which, says owner Alan Wong, will feature Hunan-style dishes tailored to foreign palates, soigné presentation, and an English picture menu in a cozy, two-story space. While highlighting the new, let’s not forget the venerable: a toast, then, to Metro Café, which just celebrated its 14th anniversary – quite an achievement in our turbulent restaurant scene.
Another vernal marker is the appearance of zongzi, glutinous rice pyramids stuffed with sweet or savory fillings and wrapped in bamboo leaves. Available from hotel restaurants including Shang Palace, Summer Palace and Wu Li Xiang, and from supermarkets (fresh and frozen), zongzi are eaten in the lead-up to the Dragon Boat Festival (May 28, this year), which commemorates the drowning suicide of Qu Yuan, a Warring States-era patriot. Oarsmen raced to save him – hence the dragon boat races – while bystanders threw rice into the water to feed fish that would otherwise nibble on his body – hence the zongzi. Purists wrap and steam them at home, though this requires skill and patience, and argue about fillings: Shanghai-style (i.e. fatty pork) versus Taiwan-style (e.g. shrimp, mung bean, and duck egg yolk).
May also marks Mother’s Day, celebrated in Beijing on the 10th, with lavish restaurant buffets. But mothers deserve more than a single day of celebration, and fortunately, in May, they get proper recognition. Around the world, Mother’s Day is feted on May 3 (Spain, Hungary), May 8 (South Korea), May 10 (US, Japan), May 15 (Paraguay), May 26 (Poland), May 27 (Bolivia) May 30 (Nicaragua) and May 31 (Algeria). That’s eight opportunities to show your filial spirit.
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