The cuisine at this inviting lakeside spot takes its cue from that of the Miao minority, who populate the West Hunan town which lends the restaurant its name. Characteristically spicy, several dishes are rooted in the folklore of the region. One example is the Wulongshan xueba (RMB 38), a nourishing sausage made from glutinous rice, beans and duck blood in pork intestine, which is said to be the portable sustenance of bandits taking refuge on Wulong Mountain. The Fenghuang mizhi fengyong (RMB 88), a mound of – brace yourselves – bee larvae dry-fried with ginger, chilli, garlic and peanuts, is best eaten under darkness on the terrace. Looks aren’t everything; the flavor is pleasantly earthy yet delicate, with an acerbic aftertaste. If this tucker sounds rather too testing, the nicely succinct menu offers adequate provision of more “normal” dishes.

Daily 10am-10pm. West end of Houhai south bank, next to Desheng Qiao, Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng District. (6612 3320)
西城区后海南沿最西端（德胜门内大街德胜桥东南角）