Maison Boulud
From pale yellow shavings of ripe Swiss Tête de Moine to a few teaspoons of unctuously creamy Saint-Félicien, the cheese platter here (RMB 120) is a memorable pleasure. A basket of wolfberry-baked bread marries especially well with the bitter-edged Gouda, which is one of a handful of artisanal cheeses produced here in China (www.cheeseinchina.com).

Daily noon-2pm, 6-10pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (6559 9200) 

Scarlett
The eight-cheese plate (RMB 168) is enough for several friends to binge on at this hip wine bar. On a recent visit, a nutty Comté, ash-coated Valançay and soft, herby Gaperon all put in strong performances but were mere understudies to an oozing Vacherin Mont D’or, so ripe it was practically making a bid for the door.

Daily 6pm-3am. Hotel G, 7A Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District (6552 2880) 

Agua
One of the only places in town you can find genuine Spanish Manchego. The Denominación de Origen cheese here is viejo (aged 12 months), with a firm texture and tangy, peppery bite. Served as a tapas dish (RMB 120), the cheese is cut into long strips and simply drizzled in extra-virgin olive oil, to be eaten with one’s fingers.

Daily noon-2pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (6559 6266) 

VIC at Sofitel
Executive chef Sakal Phoeung was brought up in the Savoie region of France, so expect to find Reblochon, Beaufort and Saint-Marcellin among the dozen or so artisanal cheeses at the Sofitel’s Sunday brunch buffet. Periodically, the hotel hosts seasonal cheese brunches featuring hot dishes like raclette, fondue, tartiflette and aligot – potatoes mashed with equal parts Cantal cheese.

Sun 11.30am-3.30pm. Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District (8599 6666) 

Chez Gérard
This tiny deli has a cheese selection on par with Jenny Lou’s, but owner Christophe (of Cafe de la Poste) claims he’ll have unpasteurized cheeses for sale by month’s end. A self-confessed cheese fanatic, Christophe organizes a group of fellow Beijing curd nerds dubbed La Fraternité du Fromage, who meet each month to scoff expensive imported cheese and drink wine.

Daily 10am-10pm. 40 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District (6415 0118)