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2009 Jul 22 Cold Comfort - Safety in Noodles

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Our appetites have taken as much of a hit in recent weeks as have our overworked sweat glands. So many of those dishes we order on auto-pilot in cooler months aren’t as appealing when temperatures inch towards 100 degrees. Times call for something cooler; the chilled noodle dishes available in these restaurants are perfect for soothing you through summer.

 


Chinese

Da Dongbei
Their Dongbei-style homecooking is popular with locals. Dongbei da lapi, cold glass noodles served with a range of vegetables and shredded pork in a peanut sauce, gets special mention. 352 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6404 1375)
东城区鼓楼东大街352号

Dunhuang Shifu
Gansu makes no claim to having the most complex or subtle of Chinese cuisines. Dunhuang Shifu respects that, and simply does what Gansu does well: large, northwestern-style helpings, plenty of tender mutton, and noodles, noodles, noodles. Try the sharp, spicy flavor of the cold liangpi (凉皮) noodles for size, and be sure to order a few chuan’r (lamb skewers, RMB 5). The restaurant is expected to move soon, as the provincial office plans to relocate. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-9.30pm. Dunhuang Dasha, 27 Fuchengmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District. (6835 3399)
敦煌食府, 西城区阜城门外大街27号敦煌大厦

Shaanxi Fengwei’r
Think Shaanxi, think noodles, and in summer at Shaanxi Fengwei’r think dami mianpi, a refreshing cold rice noodle dish dressed with condiments and fiery sesame-infused chilli oil. Daily 11am-10pm. Soho New Town, 88 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8589 5383)
朝阳区建国路88号Soho现代城西街

Three Guizhou Men
Give the suantang yu (sour fish soup) a miss for a change and explore Guizhou’s spicy cold dishes. Try the salads and Guizhou’s contribution to the cold noodle cookery book (Guizhou liangmian, 贵州凉面). Daily 24hrs. Inside the West Gate of Workers' Stadium (above Coco Banana), Chaoyang District. (6551 8517)
朝阳区工体西门内

Xinchuan Mianguan
When it’s too hot for an appetite, try Xinchuan’s cold noodles. The chewy noodles are doused in a sweet, slightly spicy, very peanut-y sauce that is simply addictive. Daily 6am-10pm. 14 Xinjiekou Nandajie, Xicheng District. (6618 2452)
西城区新街口南大街14号

Japanese

Sake Manzo
Both branches of Sake Manzo are notable for offering some of Beijing’s best and most affordable Japanese food. The Panjiayuan branch is more intimate, and the menus differ slightly. Both serve up memorable homemade tofu – you’ll be lucky to find better in Beijing – and soba noodles, along with all the sushi and sashimi you could want. 1) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight. 27 Liangmaqiao Lu, Anjialou, Chaoyang District. (6436 1608); 2) Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight. 1/F, Yilongfang, Yilongtai Apartments, 28 Panjiayuan Nanli, Chaoyang District. (8770 8767)
慢走日本烧灼餐厅, 1) 朝阳区安家楼亮马桥路27号; 2) 朝阳区潘家园南里28号漪龙台公寓伊龙坊1层

Meng Shifu
Master Meng is a Chinese chef, but he spent some time learning his craft in Japan. His mentors there were evidently skilled in the art of pulling noodles – try Meng’s chilled soba for proof. Daily 11am-10pm. Inside courtyard behind Silk Street 2, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6593 1132)
朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号店园内

Korean

Haitanghua Pyongyang Cold Noodle Restaurant
If you’re both a Stalinist and a noodle connoisseur, this is your place. Actually, the food is overpriced and fairly average, so the communist kitsch is the main draw. The waitresses are spies, so the rumor goes. They’re certainly good singers, as you may find out free of charge if you have a KTV-equipped room. Order the Korean buckwheat noodles, served with vegetables in an ice-cold, slightly sweetened soup. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 8 Xinyuanxili Zhongjie, Chaoyang District. (6461 6295/6298)
海棠花平壤冷面馆, 朝阳区新源西里中街8号

Xiong Jia
A favorite among Korean students seeking a taste of home. In the summer, swap the shaokao (barbecue) and shiguo banfan (rice, veg and chilli sauce baked in a stone pot) for a bowl of naengmyon (chilled buckwheat noodle soup). It comes at a fraction of the price you’ll pay for the North Korean experience at Haitanghua. Capitalism really does cheapen everything. South of west gate of Xijiao Hotel, Haidian District. (6239 5521)
海淀区五道口西郊宾馆西门南侧

Thai

Purple Haze Bistro
Continues to hold a firm following with its Thai curries and ambiance that impresses without intimidating. Bring your body temperature down a degree or two by starting your meal off with a vermicelli salad; avoid the red Thai curry if you intend to stay cool. Daily 11-1am. Rm 201, Bldg 3, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6501 9345) 紫苏庭, 朝阳区工体东路丙2号中国红街3号楼201室

Vietnamese

Luga’s Pho Pho
A steaming bowl of pho is perfect for the winter, but in July it’s just going to leave you sweating noodle soup. Mix up a bowl of chef Jun Trinh’s bun – cold rice noodles paired with the meat of your choosing and a thick sauce – and view the Tongli cesspit from the safety of the terrace. Daily 24hrs. Above Luga’s (opposite Tongli Studio), Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6413 2786)
朝阳区三里屯后街同里对面
 

Re: Cold Comfort - Saftey in Noodles

I like the spicy dishes.

Love,

aspicersnumber1fan

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