“A Taste of Home” is a regular magazine column in which we ask the natives of a particular country to introduce us to their national cuisine.

“We start with Buon appetito!” declares Tecla Cislaghi in the elegant dining space of Tavola. Italian niceties aside, we actually start with buffalo mozzarella wrapped in Parma ham, with fresh tomato (RMB 88). In a single dish, this encapsulates much of what Tecla and her colleague Claudia Vernotti, both from the Italian Embassy’s press office, highlight as the best of Italian cuisine.

You’ll probably think what I thought when I passed Eatalia the first time: “Another crappy Wudaokou restaurant hoping to cheat me out of a few kuai before shutting down.” But then the rumors started circulating: a family operation, run by real Italians! Handmade ravioli! Imported ingredients!

Annie’s has triumphed yet again in our awards, but they just might have some competition next year - not least because the Italian boss of this smart new restaurant used to be Annie’s right-hand man.

Five years ago, the newly built Central Park complex was billed as “cosmopolitan living at its best.” Really?

On a smoggy day, a visit to the concrete huddle of towers would eat at my soul (yes, I live in a hutong), to the point where jumping from one seemed the only escape.

Then, with a waft of freshly baked bread and great lunch specials, Pekotan could talk me off that ledge. Other nice restaurants followed, the latest being LMPLUS, a smart little Italian restaurant anyone would welcome on their doorstep.

Never underestimate the importance of a breadbasket. The savory onion focaccia at River Club was so scrumptious I scarfed down countless slices, heedless of the many courses to come. This Italian restaurant offers high-end cuisine and a fantastic Italian wine selection in a highly stylized, flawlessly white interior. Even the open kitchen is high-class, imported piece-by-piece from Italy. The focaccia and designer space both set a high bar for the meal, which River Club reaches to some extent.