This time of year, Comptoirs de France bakeries around town become veritable Santa’s grottoes. We called in on jolly owner Benjamin Devos for a cup of seasonal cheer in his Ritan store.

the Beijinger: Sure are a lot of chocolate Santas in here …
Benjamin Devos: They’re really traditional, huh? The biggest Santa is 70cm high, around 3kg of chocolate. Parents like to buy it for their children so they can destroy it then eat the pieces.

tbj: Isn’t that sending out the wrong message to kids?
BD: They know it’s just chocolate. We also have gingerbread houses, ginger stars, ginger snowmen, Christmas stollen and cookies, Italian panettone and Yule logs. Together with Easter, it’s the busiest time of year for us.

tbj: Where does it all get produced?
BD: We have a factory in 798. One room is for making ice cream, sorbets and gelatos. Then we have the chocolate room where everything is made by hand, and the biggest is the pastry room; we make the cakes early each day so they’re delivered fresh to the stores.

tbj: How do you celebrate Christmas in Beijing?
BD: On the 24th, I have a big dinner at home for all my friends. I prepare a tree, buy a big smoked salmon, make some blinis and do a turkey. Everyone brings a present and we share them out. No one knows what they’ll get. Last year someone received a hamster.

tbj: Was it dead?
BD: No, it was alive. He has it today. He’s really pissed because he still has to take care of it.

tbj: What’s the worst gift you’ve ever received?
BD: Oh, I don’t remember. The best was a mountain bike from my grandfather when I was 18. Do you remember your worst?

tbj: I got an encyclopedia about horses once.
BD: That’s really bad.

tbj: You’ve got six stores now. When are you going to stop?
BD: When I arrived in Beijing, I couldn’t get a croissant or baguette in the morning. It was terrible. So I opened the first store. We’ve been running for three and a half years – as long as I keep finding good locations, why stop?

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