In a city where style increasingly trumps substance, this jaded diner set little store by Xihe Yayuan’s handsome Ming nouveau decor and cushy window booths. While waiting for our duck (RMB 203), we grazed on a refreshing cold winged bean salad and a masterful rendition of daoxiao mian, thick knife-shaved noodles in a caramelized sauce of eggplant, red pepper, garlic and pork. The arrival of a bird roasted over pine wood to resplendent shades of brown and tan announced the moment of truth.

A few traditional mesabs, the characteristic, hourglass-shaped wicker tables native to Ethiopia, dot the small interior at Ras. This is the third location of Beijing's well-liked African restaurant in as many years, and the most humble. Next to live music venue 2 Kolegas, the out-of-the-way site's main draw is its tree-shaded garden complete with attractive stone tables, a BBQ bar and even a children's play area with a cave and slide.

Wutengzhai’s specialty is zijiang ji (RMB 88), an appetizing medley of tender chicken, cabbage, fresh peppers and an impressive amount of julienned ginger. This fragrant soup will cure you of many ills – its fiery aroma alone is enough to clear sinuses – and it’ll leave your belly warm and feeling fine.

This unassuming noodle shop keeps it cozy, with diners clustered around a narrow counter to witness their noodles being assembled. The menu, too, is tiny.

Rapidly maturing Wudaoying Hutong opens yet another restaurant. Sand Pebbles Lounge, still wet behind the ears, must contend with nearby Vineyard Café’s reliable and easy classics. Is Wudaoying big enough for both players?