Good Morning Beijing: Breakfasting In China’s Capital

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. This must be true because, like other important rituals (exercise, flossing, calling home), we tend to skip it. So this weekend take the time out for a lazy start to the day with one of Beijing's best breakfasts.

The science says we are considerably less healthy and productive without a morning meal – ideally, of “slow-release” carbohydrates. In 17th century Britain, hardy, pre-industrial folk would kick-start the day with porridge and beer. And apart from a spot of plague, most of them lived to well into their thirties.

The arrival of tea changed all that, of course – now Brits never drink beer with their morning fry-ups (that’s why the All-Day Breakfast was invented). We’ve got China to thank for keeping us sober before noon, and they (the Hong Kongers, at least) have us to thank for the art of zao cha, or morning tea, now an institution of buttery buns, sweet porridge, and big cups of “milk tea.”

The Americans expanded on the Great British tradition with bagels, biscuits, corned beef hash, English muffins (yep), and perhaps the world’s greatest potato product, the hash brown. Conversely, the continentals treat their morning meal a bit like the average housecat treats its owners – with disdainful acknowledgement. Coffee and a croissant or pastry is enough for the French or Italians, who prefer to save their culinary energies for lunch and dinner.

For all the wonderful food in Beijing, her breakfasts tend to be colorless and sloppy. Fortunately, most of us don’t get up that early. Sweetened soybean milk with youtiao (fried dough strips), rice porridge with salty pickles, meat baozi and jianbing (egg crepes) are all worth a try, or for the truly iron-stomached, a bowl of chaogan’er (see below).

Oscar Wilde said, “Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast.” But equally, a dull breakfast is unlikely to bring out the shine in anyone. According to American writer John Gunther, “All happiness depends on a leisurely breakfast.” Some of our best-remembered meals are those long, sunny mornings with fresh juice, hot coffee, warm bread, a clean breeze and the morning papers. Hopefully, this list will get you started.

BEST OF BRITISH

Vineyard Café
Englishman Will fries up “The Full English” for RMB 65 (pictured above), featuring real pork sausages, eggs and bacon, button mushrooms, baked beans, sautéed potatoes and toast. Also includes tea and freshly squeezed apple juice. Or try his mix-n-match eggs Benedict dishes (RMB 24-35) with smoked salmon, French ham and more. Opens 11.30am (closed Mondays)

Orange Tree Bistro
Fish Nation boss Jay flies the Union flag at his new Houhai restaurant. For RMB 65, the “Big British Breakfast” has genuine “bangers,” bacon, two eggs, mushrooms, tomato, toast and baked beans, and includes tea and orange juice. Opens 11am

THE CONTINENTALS

Café Zarah
The German/Austrian-style breakfast sets (RMB 35-50) include Gouda and Camembert cheese, salami, tomato and cucumber slices presented on long white plates, served with a basket of warm rolls, croissants, and boiled eggs. For the full experience, order a café au lait (RMB 30) served French-style in a deep bowl, or splash out on the “Prosecco Breakfast,” which includes one 200ml bottle of Prosecco (RMB 120). Opens 9.30am

Comptoirs de France
Their pain au chocolat, baguettes, brioche and other pastries are baked daily using flour imported from France. The Continental Breakfast deal includes a bread basket with two rolls, butter and jam, assorted pastries, coffee or tea and orange juice for RMB 53-85. Opens 7am

South German Bakery
Early birds can feast on dark rye and wheat breads, tangy marmalade, homemade berry jam and healthy muesli at this cute restaurant done up like a Bavarian cottage. Hungry diners should take on the “Big Breakfast” (RMB 65), with scrambled eggs, bacon, cured meats, cheese and breads fresh from the oven. Opens 8.30am

STARS, STRIPES AND NEW YORK STRIPS

Mrs Shanen’s Bagels
The famous Jewish breakfast of bagels with lox and a schmear (smoked salmon and cream cheese) is a favorite at this Shunyi eatery, along with an extensive breakfast menu including toasted muffins and organic products (including milk, eggs and yoghurt) from the Chinese-American owner’s other venture, Green Cow Farm. Opens 7.30am

American Steak & Eggs
Besides the classic New York Strip with two eggs and two sides (RMB 75), the US owner has introduced several regional favorites to the standard breakfast menu, including corned beef hash, pork chops, grits and buttermilk biscuits. Opens 7am

Element Fresh
Five different breakfast sets range from the gut-busting “Big American” (RMB 64), with four eggs, three strips of bacon, French toast and bottomless coffee, to healthier plates featuring broccoli omelette, whole meal toast, yoghurt, fruit and juice. The Shanghai-based chain also offers a breakfast burrito (RMB 52), pancakes (RMB 38) and bloody Mary cocktails on the weekend. Breakfast available 10-11am (weekdays), 8am-4pm (weekends)

Blue Frog
The recently expanded breakfast offerings here now include French toast, grilled steak and eggs, Greek omelette, fresh fruit salad and a two egg breakfast set. Prices range from RMB 40-100 including regular tea, coffee or a soft drink. Upgrade to a cappuccino or latte for RMB 10 extra. Opens 10am

SOME DIM SUM

Guanghe Chaxuan
Part of the Guangdong Provincial Government Office, the dim sum here is served on little trolleys, just as they are in Hong Kong. Choose from 30 varieties (RMB 12-20 per portion) and don’t pass up the delicious steamed pork buns. Opens 7am

Jade Garden
The daily dim sum buffet for RMB 88 has over 60 varieties to feast on, so visit with a group of friends to get the most for your money. Don’t expect much in the way of service, but if you manage to grab a waitress, make sure to order the delicious changfen rice rolls, congee and fried dumplings. Opens 11am

Lei Garden
Visit this upscale Cantonese favorite on weekends for some of Beijing’s finest dim sum (RMB 15-25 per portion). Opens 11.30am

BREAKFAST BEIJING

Nanlaishun Restaurant
Sweet soymilk and youtiao, Tianjin-style egg pancakes and hundreds of other snacks are on offer at this busy laozihao (time-honored brand) restaurant. Point at what you fancy and pay at the counter. Try the tofu brain (doufu nao), silky-soft white tofu in a thick broth. Opens 6am

Yaoji Chaogan Dian
Feeling brave? Order a bowl of this lao Beijing breakfast classic – pork liver and intestines in a mushroom broth topped with crushed raw garlic. Opens 6am