Fashion Without Limits: Zhang Da's "Boundless" Collection at UCCA

If you haven’t heard of Zhang Da before, who could blame you? He's earned himself a reputation for being one of China's most mysterious designers. The fashion community can only speculate on his character via his unique design techniques, as illustrated by his own label Boundless ("Meibian" 没边). More recently, he was also enlisted to design for Hermes’ up-and-coming China-based label Shang Xia.

Though his atelier is located in Shanghai, he flew down to Beijing to lead a four-part design series at 798’s Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA). It all began in early July when he headed a student workshop at the Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology, then concluded with a “fashion show” last Sunday, August 15 which previewed his Fall/Winter 2010 collection.

The UCCA press release claims that there are “no flashing lights, pounding disco beats, high-concept designs, or willowy models.” But we didn't need to read that to understand that this was no ordinary fashion show. No entrance fees? Free to the public? Real people as models? It felt and looked different from all the other shows we’ve ever attended.

The decor was purposefully shabby and plain, with whitewashed walls, fluorescent lighting and basic furnishings – which ranged from cracked wooden dressers to ceramic bowls and, randomly, vintage Coca Cola bottles. Scratchy retro music tinkled out of the wall speakers, while the crowd consisted of more than just the usual media hounds and fashionistas, with passing tourists and art geeks also in attendance.

Apparently, The Space was remade to look this way in order to conjure up memories of the ‘70s and ‘80s in China – simpler, slower times that were far less materialistic.

But was the show a success? Zhang Da made a sharp departure from his previous lines which centered around abstract concepts, this time citing inspiration from common people and daily necessities. He used cheaper and more accessible materials like plain blue cloth and padded cotton (a la China’s 1960s workers’ uniform), blending the traditional style and cuts of the Chinese city and countryside with modern design.

We asked a few of the attendees to share their thoughts.

Nancy, 25. "I thought [the collection] was very original. It brings back a lot of memories of the '80s in China. I don't think Zhang Da was aiming so much for couture or luxury – this was more experimental. I liked that he gathered regular people to be models."

Aurora, 26, magazine editor. "This collection had a very traditional Chinese feel, merged with modern styles. I don't think it will be easy for the Chinese market to accept – it was almost too nostalgic. In Chinese peoples' opinion, the clothing is probably not much different from what they're already used to wearing."

Peter, 26, photographer. "I liked some of the shapes; the silhouettes were really cool. The prints really stood out. I wasn't sure what was going on with the body paint, but I liked the layering on the girls."

If you're at all intrigued, you've still got a chance to check out the designs firsthand. The preview will run for the next 10 days at the UCCA, while the clothing is already available for purchase at the UCCA Store.

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Dashanzi Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (8459 9269) http://www.ucca.org.cn 尤伦斯当代艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区

UCCA Store. Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Dashanzi Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (8459 9715) edition@ucca.org.cn 尤伦斯艺术商店, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区