2010 Aug 26 Terra Firma: Ceviche in the Heart of Sanlitun
You’re going out for sushi? That scene is old, man. Haven’t you heard? Ceviche is where it’s at. Like sushi, it’s protein-rich and low in carbs, but curing raw fish in citrus juices imparts a fruity zing, and the addition of chilli adds fire. As ever, SALT restaurateur Gaby Alves is doing her utmost to keep Beijingers à la mode with Terra, a new bar and restaurant specializing in Peruvian ceviche and tiraditos (its carpaccio-like cousin).
Of the eight types offered, tuna ceviche came recommended – mouth-sized chunks of fish married with zesty orange; diced red onion provided textural crunch. A single scallop on the side seemed to exist solely to justify the price tag (RMB 68). The Terra salad (RMB 88), a scatter of fresh leaves dotted with sweet papaya pieces, crunchy edamame pods and toasted quinoa was fresh and virtuous, if not too nourishing. Hot dishes include delicious but modestly portioned empanadas (try the shredded chicken at RMB 88), skewers of octopus, soy-marinated pork and more (RMB 108).
Terra’s black and green livery is noticeably more “nightspot” than SALT, and furthered by sociably tall bar-side tables and a drinks list both fun and affordable. Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is a bargain house white at RMB 178 and pairs excellently with seafood, while Estrella Inedit – the wine bottle-sized gourmet beer from Spain’s El Bulli wizards – is on offer for RMB 98.
Successfully striking that middle ground between restaurant and bar isn’t easy, but Terra’s strength lies in its bridge location between Sanlitun Village and the bars on Sanlitun Nanlu. With a few heartier snacks and sharers, it should become a mandatory pit stop on the Sanlitun circuit.
Standout dishes: Ceviche, chicken empanadas
Also try: Mosto, ROOMbeijing
Terra
Tue-Sun 11am-1am. 1 Sanlitun Nanlu (southeast corner of intersection with Gongti Beilu), Chaoyang District (6591 9148)
朝阳区三里屯南路1号
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