2010 Sep 02 Comically Inauthentic: London Restaurant & Cafe at Gongti
Incongruous moments are a dime a dozen in Beijing, but bringing our kids to this restaurant catering to Gongti clubbers proved unusually weird.
The children didn’t know what to make of the violet chairs embossed with kissing cupids and pillows decorated with images of Jesus, but they did warm to the equine decorative theme, especially the life-size horse statue bearing a lamp. Assisted by a kind English-speaking manager, we navigated the globe-spanning menu of sashimi, foie gras, Mexican steak and big name, status-affirming bottles of Bordeaux.
Things took a comically inauthentic turn with the complimentary “bruschetta,” slices of white bread topped with flavor-free melted cheese and dollops of ragù that tasted like it came straight out of the can, from which the adults sought consolation in the remains of a stiff gin and tonic (RMB 40). The mains came in staggered order, with a ten-minute delay between the spaghetti bolognese (RMB 58), featuring the now familiar ragù, and lamb chops (RMB 68) – only one of which was served medium as ordered – accompanied by a mysterious green puree and defrosted fries.
At least these dishes were edible. Not so the nasi goreng (RMB 58) that featured a fried egg over lukewarm clusters of hard rice mixed with barely visible bits of chicken and shrimp and two amusement park-style chuan’r of mystery meat and tendons.
Admittedly, my clubbing days are long past, but it is hard to imagine how any amount of partying could mask the dreadful quality of such fare.
London Restaurant & Café
Daily 5pm-2am. Gate 2, Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District (6779 8888)
伦敦之夜餐厅, 朝阳区朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内2号进口
Got something to say about this or any other Beijing venue? Register as a user at the Beijinger.com and post your review on our online directory.
You might also be interested in :
Capital Bites: Valentine's, Veal, Pasta and Pingtan
With Valentine's Day approaching, new pasta deals at Flamme and much more to report, here we are with this week's roundup of the latest news, gossip and scandal from Beijing's restaurant scene. Let's go!
Pho La La: Introductory Vietnamese
If landlords explained rent increases as being directly related to the number of new restaurants opening in a given area, the residents of Xingfu Ercun could hardly complain. Shimao Department Store has added a dozen new (mostly Chinese) options just a few minutes’ walk away, and this small Vietnamese spot brings further variety even closer to home.
A Star Is Reborn: Authentic, Affordable Yunnan
It doesn’t seem that long ago I was making wildly enthusiastic faces about Dali Renjia (my mouth was really full). But in the breakneck world of Beijing chow, chefs move on, places are sold, prices and salt levels rise. Soon enough, your order of tudou wan comes daubed in ketchup.
Thankfully, you can’t keep a good idea down. Wen Juan, one of the former Dali Renjia owners, has opened Haney right across the street.
Thai Express: Quick Curries at Jianguomen
Thai Express has merit as a handy lunchtime stop. Convenience and speed are the essence, with efficient service and a chilli-coded menu. Thai specialties like Tom Yam Goong (RMB 48) and soft-shell crab are featured, but Thai Express’ strengths are the simpler meat and vegetable curries.
WasPark: Cuteness and Cheeseburgers in Soho
Like almost everything in Soho Shangdu, this tiny cafe is hard to find. You might be charmed by cheerful owner Mela and her cute Chinglish messages, handwritten on chalkboards. If Amelie had her own cafe, it would have been like this. The prices certainly appeal – burgers start from just RMB 17. And the cheeseburgers are good, in a get-what-you-pay-for kind of way. The bun is dry, the whole package a bit roughand-ready, but the effect suits the cafe’s DIY style.
tomomalley
Re: Comically Inauthentic: London Restaurant & Cafe at ...
Why is there a precarious pat of butter standing between the bruschetta? And what's with the Ridler-esque question marks on the tableware? And is that fellow in the background the mysterious George Bai? So many questions...
Follow my Beijing dining tweets on Twitter: Beijing_gourmet