Heaven Eleven: Brasserie Flo Celebrates 11 Years in Beijing

Take a hereditary love of gastronomy, a childhood spent playing in vegetable gardens and add a sprinkling of summers spent catching fish off the south coast of France. The result is a talented chef dedicated to using local and seasonal produce to create authentic French cuisine. We spoke to Brasserie Flo’s Chef de Cuisine Bertrand Combe about what it means to him to be part of the culinary tradition at Flo. Throughout September Brasserie Flo will be celebrating their 11th Anniversary of doing business in Beijing with a special menu for RMB 288.

When did you first start cooking?
I started when I was very young. I grew up in a family where everyone cooked, so I always wanted to be a chef. I used to help out in a brasserie in my village when I was ten years old.

Where did you train to become a chef?
I went to a chef school to do my training. Every six months we would have training in the restaurant. It wasn’t until my first job, working in a restaurant, that I started to learn about discipline, how the food should taste, how to respect the food. The chef was “old style” – very strict. It was difficult at first, but I feel it was there that I truly started to learn.

Where have you worked before coming to Beijing?
After my training I went to London to improve my English, because I wanted to travel and not stay in my small village. I then worked in Italy. After that I was on a French Caribbean island for three years, and learned how to cook a little bit of Caribbean food.

I came to China almost three years ago. For me, working in China is interesting because I can try so many different dishes and learn a different style of cooking. Italy was also really good, because they have really good food and produce.

How would you define your cooking style?
I use old French recipes and make them new and simple. I guess I would say my style is simplistic and authentic.

Where do you get your inspiration for recipes?
I read a lot of cookbooks. I also go to many restaurants to try different food. Of course, I can’t make the same dishes, because they are Chinese, but I can get ideas. I also get inspiration from my past travels.

Do you have a favorite food to cook with?
Fish, because I grew up close to the sea and went fishing with my father all the time.

Tell us more about the 11th Anniversary special menu? What are some of the dishes featured?
L’émotion c’est aussi le gout (“The emotion lies in the flavor”). This year our anniversary menu is a combination of our most popular dishes from the past 11 years at Brasserie Flo. As Beijing is a changing city, we do our best to reflect culinary traditions in a contemporary way. Thus the menu includes, among other dishes, our foi gras and crème brulee, prepared, as always, exactly as they are in France. Also according to French tradition our guests will be surprised with a little gift.

What is the significance of this anniversary for Flo Beijing?
Chez nous tout est sensations et émotions (“At our place, everything is about sensations and emotions”). Throughout these 11 years, diners were not just guests, but friends. They appreciate our French Cuisine, consistent service and affordable prices that all add up to an authentic French Brasserie experience. We want to thank our guests for being so loyal to us and supporting us all these years.

What is it like to be part of the culinary tradition here at Flo Beijing?
Being French from Marseille I am glad and proud to share traditional French cuisine with people. Beijing’s culinary world is just incredible and being part of it is a great honor for us. The Brasserie style is popular among both locals and foreigners, and we feel that we hit the mark when it comes to diners’ culinary preferences. Adapting French Cuisine to Beijing has been an incredible experience for me. Giving a bit of France to all who want to come and eat in a typical French Brasserie is my personal gift to the culinary tradition in Beijing.

How has your time here in Beijing influenced you?
Since my arrival in Beijing three years ago, I have continued discovering new ingredients and new ways to cook them. I love the challenge to create new dishes to meet both European and Asian expectations. This vibrant city keeps pushing me to creative places I would never have imagined.

What are some of your favorite things to do and places to go to eat and have fun around town?
Once a while, I like to bring my family to Chaoyang Park for relaxation and getting back to nature. 798 Art District is also among our favorite places to go on a day off to appreciate both Chinese traditional and contemporary art. We discovered Xiu during the World Cup this year – one of Beijing’s best al fresco bars. When we crave fresh seafood we always drop by Shun Feng seafood restaurant – their steamed sturgeon is a long-time favorite. When receiving friends from abroad, we like to bring them to Duck de Chine for a really good Beijing duck plus elegant ambiance.

Are there any restaurants you’d recommend for Chinese food?
I go to many restaurants. I like going to Da Dong and trying different dishes. For my interview at Flo, I was taken to meet Da Dong. The guy is very creative and has interesting ideas. I like people like that. I find them inspiring. I also like to go to local Chinese places. Noodle Loft is also really good. The food is tasty and cheap, and the noodles remind me a little of Italy.

What was your motivation to come to China?
I was always hoping to move overseas. At the time, I was looking for jobs all over the world, but when the opportunity to work in China came up my wife said, “Yeah! Let’s go to China!” Moving to China offered me a challenge; learning how to cook a different type of cuisine and a new language.

What was your first impression of Beijing?
I was a bit surprised, because I was not expecting it to be like it is. I had heard a lot of stories about the pollution and the traffic. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Beijing’s a vibrant city; there’s always so much going on. The more I discover Beijing, the more I appreciate it. It’s like wine; the more you drink it, the more you enjoy it.

Brasserie Flo Daily 11am-3pm, 5.30-11pm. Rainbow Plaza (Longbo Guangchang), 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu (south of the Great Wall Sheraton), Chaoyang District. (6595 5135/9) www.flo.cn 北京福楼餐厅, 朝阳区东三环北路16号隆博广场二层
Chaoyang Park Daily 6am-10pm (last entry at 9pm). 1 Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6506 5409) www.sun-park.com 朝阳公园,朝阳区农展馆南路1号

Da Dong Roast Duck Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 5/F, Jinbao Dasha, Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. (8522 1234); 2) 1-2/F, Nanxincang International Plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. (5169 0329); 3) 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu (southeast corner of Changhong Qiao), Chaoyang District. (6582 2892/4003) 北京大董烤鸭店, 1) 东城区金宝街金宝大厦5层; 2) 东城区东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦1~2楼(立交桥西南角); 3) 朝阳区团结湖北口3号楼东三环路(长虹桥东南角)

Duck de Chine Daily 11am-2.30pm, 6-11pm. 1949–The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite the south gate of Pacific Century Place Mall), Chaoyang District. (6501 1949) 全鸭季,朝阳区工体北路4号院 (太平洋百货南门对面)

Noodle Loft Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 18 Baiziwan Lu (south of Soho New Town), Chaoyang District. (6774 9950/ 5372); 2) 3 Heping Xijie, Chaoyang District. (5130 9655) 面酷, 1) 朝阳区百子湾路18号（Soho现代城往南）; 2） 朝阳区和平西街3号

Shun Feng Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-2.30am. 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District.
(6507 0554, 6502 2443) 顺峰,朝阳区东三环北路16号

Xiu Sun-Wed 6pm--2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-3am. 6/F, Park Life (entrance across from the Park Hyatt hotel lobby), Yintai Center, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8567 1108) 秀,朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店6层银泰中心悦生活6层