2010 Oct 30 Industrial Space & Sumptuous Terrace: Viva Las Migas
Come spring, Migas will attract flocks of scenesters to its sumptuous seventh-story Sanlitun terrace, which offers 360-degree views and a decor of cacti and ovoid seating pods that suggests a UFO landing site. Until then, its principal lure will be its sixth-floor restaurant, a cavernous industrial space styled in a grey and brown palette offset by a colorful Miro-esque painting and futuristic light globules. Small plate and wine menus worthy of Barcelona’s hippest restaurants and an Ibero-jazz soundtrack add to the pleasantly dislocating effect – Beijing’s boxy buildings seem a world away.
Dishes featuring cod, a common Spanish ingredient, were unavailable during our visit, but expectations were buoyed by a chilled Albariño white wine and a ración of chalky, nutty Manchego goat cheese (RMB 38) felicitously dunked in olive oil. Next came an Insaladilla potato salad (RMB 35) with onions, peppers and olives, whose strong flavors were drowned in a sea of mayonnaise. Equally forgettable, the Beef Burger Quim Special (RMB 48) consisted of two dry, overseasoned silver dollar-sized patties served with barbecue sauce on wimpy white bread.
The suckling pig (RMB 98), however, was a toothsome twosome of crispy skin and tender juicy meat. Our arteries now required something green. We sought – but failed to find – relief in the crispy asparagus, which to our surprise consisted of two sad stalks wrapped in cheese ‘n’ bacon and deep-fried.
Judging by this uneven meal, which lightened wallets and weighed down stomachs, Migas will have to raise its game if it hopes to outdraw neighboring Nali Patio restaurants during the long, cold winter.
Standout dishes: Manchego cured in olive oil, suckling pig
Also try: Carmen, Modo, Niajo
Migas Restaurant and Lounge
Daily 10am-3pm, 5-11pm. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6061)
米家思, 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园6层
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