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2010 Nov 27 Switch! Dishes Up Classic Comfort Food in 798

 

The huge stainless-steel open kitchen calls to mind an American diner, but the slick furnishings take away that illusion. The menu, however, does reflect classic comfort food: mac and cheese croquettes (RMB 35) and donut holes (RMB 35). Helmed by successful caterers Culinary Capers, Switch! serves simple and upbeat Western fare.

The duck dip (RMB 45) is a marvelous riff on the classic French dip, served with a great au jus. The calamari (RMB 35) is flawless and yam fries (RMB 25) always please the crowds.

The brunch falters a bit, with canapé-esque portions that recall their catering origins. For example, the steak and eggs (RMB 65) had a card-sized filet and one egg dropped into a hole in the toast. (Leave the toast whole, please – I’m still hungry.)

This lofted multipurpose space, attached to the UCCA, finally offers 798’s gallery-hoppers a chic spot to grab lunch, have a glass of wine and take a breather.

Standout dishes: Duck dip, calamari
Also try: Element Fresh

Switch!
Tue-Wed, Sun 11am-6pm; Thu-Sat 11am-9pm. 8503, 798 art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (5978 4916)
朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区8503 (近UCCA)




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