2010 Dec 03 Smart-Casual Italian in the CBD: LMPLUS
Five years ago, the newly built Central Park complex was billed as “cosmopolitan living at its best.” Really?
On a smoggy day, a visit to the concrete huddle of towers would eat at my soul (yes, I live in a hutong), to the point where jumping from one seemed the only escape.
Then, with a waft of freshly baked bread and great lunch specials, Pekotan could talk me off that ledge. Other nice restaurants followed, the latest being LMPLUS, a smart little Italian restaurant anyone would welcome on their doorstep.
From the guys behind L’Isola, LMPLUS exports the ristorante fare that’s won plaudits from Italian expats into a smaller, more casual environment. At noon, most other diners (including impeccably dressed Italians) were daintily picking at panini and foccacia sandwiches stuffed with vibrant veggies (RMB 35-45). I opted for the set lunch (three courses RMB 79, two courses RMB 49).
Some bread and a jug of lemon water were early signs of good service, which only wobbled a bit when I had to harass a waiter for black pepper to fix my spaghetti carbonara, one of about eight pasta options. For secondi, porchetta, a fatty roll of herb-infused pork belly from the Lazio region, was a greasy, guilty treat. Mercifully, tiramisu ended things on a lighter note, tasty if just a little lacking in alcohol.
A 12-seat “wine room” and antipasti buffet smartens things up for dinner, and the thoughtful wine list showcases excellent by-the-glass selections at good prices. In a housing complex that lacked heart, LMPLUS adds another welcome dot of warmth.
Standout dishes: Minestrone soup, porchetta with roasted vegetables
Also try: L’Isola, Annie’s
LMPLUS
Daily 8am-11pm. Unit 102, Bldg 10, Central Park, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (6533 6366)
朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号新城国际10号楼102号
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