Four minutes after sitting down, my party of two was forced to make way for an unscrupulous foursome. We waited 15 minutes for another table. Eventually, the waitress delivered a complimentary omelet, glazed deliciously with soy and miso, and all was forgiven, if not forgotten.

Beijing isn’t lacking for hot pot spots, so when a new one appears, even enthusiasts might ask “Why bother?” Gao Gao answers that question with high-quality ingredients and a commitment to recreating the freshest Taipei hot pot.

The first thing that strikes you about Feast is that it’s a fine-looking restaurant. Of course, nobody really comes to a place like this to enjoy the design, so it’s just as well that the all-you-can-eat offerings deliver. Mix up your own salad to ease yourself in, and try not to overindulge in the bread and cheese selection – you’re going to need every inch your stomach allows.

Since the term nyonya refers to the women of Chinese communities in Malaysia and Singapore, pretend with me for a second that Little Nyonya, the restaurant, is an actual woman. She’d be the kind of gal you could take home to meet your mom: reliable and demure, not the most glamorous, but someone you can settle down with. She does, after all, know how to cook.

If you love the food at Chuan Ban, but find the environment a little too “authentic” for out-of-town visitors or a date, Syringa may be your best new alternative. The kitchen is staffed with Chuan Ban alumni, but the setting is cleaner, fresher and has a certain rustic-chic meets cliché-contemporary-art charm.