2011 Jan 31 Southern Comfort: The Delicacies of Little Yunnan
There is no shortage of charming courtyard restaurants in Beijing, but few are as cozy as Little Yunnan. The tiny but functioning wood stove in the center of the room keeps the space toasty and the tea kettle bubbling. Two lofts lined with couches serve as small private dining rooms, and the smattering of plants along the windowsill and books along the shelves help make this restaurant a tiny den of warmth.
Portions are small, but the homestyle dishes are flavorful without being overly salty or oily. Yunnan delicacies are well-represented – there are various wild mushroom dishes, including mushroom hot pot, and Yunnan ham is found throughout the menu. The scrambled eggs with jasmine flowers (RMB 22) have a delicate floral aroma, and it’s such an aesthetic pleasure to munch on little flower buds. Grilled tilapia (RMB 46) is crusted with a blend of fresh peppers – a very spicy Dai-style compote, so be warned – but paired with the mellow fish it goes down pleasantly. The beef stew (RMB 48) has a mint-infused broth that is intriguing and mildly shocking upon first bite.
The simple fare is the best. The ham and mustard greens (RMB 38) showcases the smoky perfection of Yunnan ham, and each grain of the pineapple glutinous rice maintained its integrity while being plump and sticky. The rice wine (RMB 18-30), a milky sweet brew that is fermented in-house, makes a refreshing accompaniment. This homey space is popular with locals, and the enjoyable dishes and amiable proprietor make clear why.
Also try: Dali Courtyard
Little Yunnan
Daily 11am-midnight. 28 Donghuang Chenggen Beijie, Dongcheng District (6401 9498)
东城区东黄城根北街28号
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