Start: Qianmen subway station (Line 1)

Ever since this famous north-south thoroughfare was re-imagined Disney-style for the Olympics, most expat residents give it a wide-birth, save for the occasional splurge at Capital M, the first point of foodie interest on the walk. Even laowai-loved Element Fresh couldn’t cut it here, a little further down the avenue, closing after less than a year in business. But there are a few gems if you know where to step.

With the exception of a few tea-based cocktails (RMB 35), the offerings here are pretty mediocre. The Western-influenced sushi rolls (RMB 48-68) with thick sauce and rich condiments could be considered tasty, though certainly not by traditional standards.

Izakayas are the tapas bars of Japan, a tie-loosening mix of alcohol and eats in an atmosphere of buzz and banter. It’s fair to say nobody at Kiko has read the brief.

… mantou 馒头
Usually made from wheat flour, water and yeast, this Chinese staple has a dense texture reminiscent of the interior of bagels and soft pretzels, though it lacks a chewy outer shell. The plain steamed mantou demands strong accompaniments –

What’s the most fun you can have with 30 people, a tub of spicy tuna and a giant table bound in plastic-wrap? The mind boggles, but I’ll go with Hatsune's sushi-rolling school. Donning a black bandana for the third class hosted by the long-standing Japanese restaurant, I discovered, among other things, that with great sushi rice, three hours and a few glasses of Asahi beer, anyone can make maki worth eating.