Izakayas are the tapas bars of Japan, a tie-loosening mix of alcohol and eats in an atmosphere of buzz and banter. It’s fair to say nobody at Kiko has read the brief.

Kiichiro Asano comes from the family who founded Japan’s respected Inagiku restaurant brand. He’s long since sold his stake in Inagiku, but has brought that restaurant’s tasty trademark tempura to the newly opened Restaurant T, which also specializes in high-quality kaiseki.

The star of the menu here is the scallop grilled with butter sauce (RMB 90) – meaty and fresh, smooth and scrumptious. “Chocolate burger meat” (RMB 45) may sound like a dessert al carne; actually, these are creative croquettes, stuffed with unsweetened dark chocolate sauce.

Relocating from the China World Hotel to China World Summit Wing has given Nadaman a more contemporary look and a new team of Japanese chefs. Manager Matsuzawa Shu remains, ensuring the restaurant’s offerings – still featuring quality kaiseki sets (RMB 580-1,200 per person) – retain their traditional spirit.

This elegant Japanese restaurant, a favorite of many Shunyi-residents, has opened a new branch in the heart of Sanlitun. The menu’s emphasis is on capturing the essence of quality ingredients, which in turn means higher prices. Each of the several small private rooms feature a teppanyaki grill as the centerpiece (hence the restaurant’s suitability for group dinners), and regulars give the entertainingly prepared (by a private chef) and artistically presented food high ratings.