2011 Sep 14 Grape Press: Beyond the Great Wall; Discover China's Best Wines

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.
Those of us who follow the quality of Chinese wines could be forgiven for thinking that nothing much changes. Domestic wine production remains dominated by the big three behemoths: Changyu, Dynasty and Great Wall. While these companies produce largely bulk wine, often blended with imported wine to meet demand, they also have premiumpriced products, although these too remain variable in quality.
In China, then, only a handful of largely smaller operations can claim to make drinkable, interesting wines. Judging at the Second China Wine Challenge in Shanghai in July, I happened to be on the blind-tasting panel deciding the trophy for “Best Chinese Wine.” One red stood out as having ripe fruit, careful use of oak and sensitivity in assembling a blend, all pretty rare qualities in the world of Chinese wine production. The wine turned out to be the 2009 Silver Heights Family Reserve.
But there are sizeable joint ventures whose fruits are yet to be found in bottle, like DBR Lafite’s CITIC project and Moët’s sparkling wine operation in Ningxia. In the tough Chinese viticultural landscape, Ningxia is certainly one of the places to look to for improving wines.
ONE TO QUAFF
2008 Helan Mountain Premium Classic Chardonnay, Ningxia (RMB 68, Pernod Ricard) Available at China World Summit Wing
This is a light drinker representing good value. Light green-gold in color, it has pleasant white peach and apple fruit with lifting medium acidity.
ONE TO DRINK
2008 Grace Vineyard Tasya’s Reserve Chardonnay, Shanxi (RMB 218, Torres China) Available at Maison Boulud, Sofitel
A more serious Chinese Chardonnay. Deep gold in color, the nose has lemon citrus and toasted French oak aromas buoyed by medium acidity on the palate. Good length too.
ONE TO SAVOR
2009 Silver Heights “Family Reserve,” Ningxia (RMB 276, Torres China) Available at Hilton Wangfujing, Bellagio
Emma Gao’s 2009 reds are a veritable triumph. Dark purple in color, and the nose has ripe black fruits with pleasant American oak followed up by a palate of ripe, juicy tannins, lovely acidity and attractive length.
Edward Ragg is co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting, China’s leading independent wine consultancy and education service (www.longfengwines.com). They write for the world’s wine magazines and several publications in China.
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Grape press: Cool As Ice

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.
Chinese New Year is one of those festivals in which wine is now a gift of choice. Ice wine has in recent years become increasingly popular, and not only for gifting purposes.
But what is ice wine? It’s a dessert wine made from grapes which, in the Northern Hemisphere, are harvested as late as December or even January. Only healthy berries are picked in conditions around -10°C. After the fruit is pressed in the winery, the frozen water is removed, leaving only a thick, concentrated nectar for fermentation. In fact, the sweetness of ice wine affects the alcohol content. Most yeasts die when the alcohol reaches a level of 5-10 percent ABV – there’s just too much sugar for the poor yeast to survive! So if you see an ice wine listed as 15 percent ABV, it can’t be the real deal.
Pinot Doubt: What’s All the Fuss About?

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.
Until 2004, Pinot Noir was cherished mostly by “Pinotphiles.” Then the black comedy Sideways came out and with the virtues of Pinot Noir extolled on the big screen, sales rose. Such was the demand that giant US winery Gallo was even duped into buying a blended Languedoc red purporting to be 100 percent Pinot Noir.
Racy Reds: Romantic Wines That Will Seduce

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.
Whether it’s a love affair with the grape or choosing that fine bottle to share with someone special, only fools rush in.
Champagne is often the first choice to whet just about any appetite, but its high acidity can be tough on stomachs, especially when served as an aperitif without food. Rosé wines can make for a cheerful mood, but not a lot of them are sold in China. As stock moves slowly, many are sadly out of condition by the time they are sold. While there are plenty of whites that make attractive partners, this month we’re focusing on that quintessentially Chinese color: red. But if you want to impress your date, don’t necessarily go for the well-trodden. Grand Cru Classé red Bordeaux may have a price tag that turns heads, but it is rarely seductive on the palate, especially when young.
This month’s wine selections are all hearty reds with plenty of body and staying power – lush, plush and what even wine professionals would term “sexy.”
Last Orders: Ignace Lecleir, General Manager of Temple

“Last Orders” is a regular magazine column in which we ask noteworthy Beijingers to imagine their final meal before leaving the city for good. This month’s host: Ignace Lecleir, general manager at Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB).
The venue
Preferably, the feast would begin at 11am in the morning, if not at dawn, and last all the way until midnight. I’d want to have the focus on the Chinese cuisine I’ve grown to love over the years. The menu will contain a selection of Chinese and Western dishes that would awaken my taste memory. I’d like to have my entire team, some friends and family to join me. The venue of my choice will be Temple Restaurant Beijing, where I’m currently working.Grape Press: Beyond Champagne
Last month we looked at the heavily marketed – and variable in quality – world of Champagne. This time we take a peek at the broader sphere of sparkling wines.




mdev
Re: Grape Press: Beyond the Great Wall; Discover China's ...
Any suggestions for stores we can buy a bottle of any of these without the 50-100% markup at the mentioned restaurants?
I tasted a Grace Vineyards wine once and really enjoyed it, and would gladly buy a bottle instead of some of the lower end import bottles, except I can never find it!