2011 Sep 21 Takenosuke: It's the Okonomiyaki, Stupid
Four minutes after sitting down, my party of two was forced to make way for an unscrupulous foursome. We waited 15 minutes for another table. Eventually, the waitress delivered a complimentary omelet, glazed deliciously with soy and miso, and all was forgiven, if not forgotten.
Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima-style egg pancake buried under fish flakes and savory sauces, is the highlight. The basic version (RMB 35) is a tasty mashup of cabbage, egg and sprinklings of pork.
Also brilliant is the avocado and crab roe salad (RMB 23). Fresh, mellow avocado complemented the “pop” of each fishy egg-burst. Balance out those vegetables with a scalloped bacon, mushroom and potato bake (RMB 28), creamy and yielding beneath a processed cheese slice.
Bustling even on a Tuesday, this gem could comfortably fill a space three times bigger, like their old Anjialou digs. At the moment, though, too many punters and not enough seats make this strictly a weeknight spot.
Also try: Jidaiya Syun, Isshin
Takenosuke
Mon-Fri 5-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. Unit 5081, 5/F, Bldg D, Chaowai Soho, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Daijie, Chaoyang District (5869 1323) 武之助日本料理, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街乙6号朝外Soho D座5层5081室
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