2011 Dec 17 Harbin Express: Childhood Eats Through a Grown-up Lens
As a very small child, before I discovered the Joys of Bacon, the only way to make me eat protein was to take me to a specific restaurant on the outskirts of Harbin, run by one of my second cousins (once removed). He would make guobao rou (锅包肉) for me, and that’d be my pig fix for the month.
For RMB 68, Black Soil Impressions does guobao rou just as well as my second cousin.
A few kilometers east of the Bird’s Nest, Black Soil Impressions is definitely out of the way for most of us. However, they serve up bountiful portions of what is arguably the closest thing Beijing has to real Dongbei food. Guobao rou is what every weak-sauce “sweet and sour pork” aspires to be. The sauce’s initial sweetness is cut with a punch of vinegar, while deep-fried fillets provide crunch and texture. Paired with the classic di san xian (地三鲜, RMB 43), an expertly-executed stir-fry of potato, eggplant and bell peppers, it’s a knockout combo.
Dongbei’s famous da lapi (大拉皮, RMB 19) came highly recommended by Dianping.com. The traditional cold starter douses thin, wide potato-starch noodles and julienned vegetables in sesame sauce, oil and vinegar. Unfortunately, Black Soil’s version was overly sweet, tipping into dangerous sesame-candy territory. The noodles were thick, sticky and sans bite. Perhaps northeastern gourmets are a rarity among Dianping’s user base?
The Harbin sausage (红肠, RMB 23) lacked a little something, but is at least cheaper than the overnight train to Harbin. The big, flat, pan-fried dumplings known as hezi (盒子, RMB 12) are clumsily made, with the chive and egg filling drowning in thick pockets of dough, but seasoned well.
If you want to believe that great Dongbei cuisine is more than just dumplings, give Black Soil Impressions a go. This is generous, winter-friendly cookery that’s easy on the wallet even with the round-trip cab factored in. Still, it’s not as good as my mother’s cooking. Just saying.
Black Soil Impressions. Daily 11am-10pm. Bldg 1, Anhuili Erqu, Huizhong Lu, Chaoyang District (6498 5015) 黑土印象，朝阳区慧忠路安慧里二区1号楼
Click here to see the December issue of the Beijinger in full.
Photo: Susan Sheng
You might also be interested in :
Spring Bing: Wrap Up the Last of Winter
The world’s premiere weather rodent, Punxsutawney Phil, saw his shadow on Groundhog Day this year, which pushes back the advent of spring to around mid- March. Surely that’s too long to wait? Time to take matters into your own hands … by having yourself some chunbing!
Say Yes to Yunnan: The Delicacies of Dali
There is a certain softness of speech amongst the Bai women of Yunnan that elides the vowels and tapers off each word. Shanghai women have it too, in smaller measure. The Chinese describe it as dia (嗲), a dissonant adjective for an uncommonly sweet result.
Back For More: Yi House Restaurant
Yi House (formerly known as Fennel) offers a hotel brunch like few others. It’s a more thoughtful, intimate model based on a limited a la carte selection – similar to that of Maison Boulud. The menu is divided into four sections (starters, mains, Asian and desserts) from which diners can order any four dishes. With a larger group you can sample everything, but as long as you’re not dining alone you’re in for a diverse experience.
Gao Gao Spicy Hot Pot: Cook-It-Yourself With a Taiwanese Twist
Beijing isn’t lacking for hot pot spots, so when a new one appears, even enthusiasts might ask “Why bother?” Gao Gao answers that question with high-quality ingredients and a commitment to recreating the freshest Taipei hot pot.
Fit For a King: Feast Offers a New All-You-Can-Eat Option
The first thing that strikes you about Feast is that it’s a fine-looking restaurant. Of course, nobody really comes to a place like this to enjoy the design, so it’s just as well that the all-you-can-eat offerings deliver. Mix up your own salad to ease yourself in, and try not to overindulge in the bread and cheese selection – you’re going to need every inch your stomach allows.
ConnorTooley
Re: Harbin Express: Childhood Eats Through a Grown-up Lens
43 kuai for a plate of di san xian? I hope that's either a misprint of you're joking, although, I get the feeling that neither of those apply. That's highway robbery for something that costs an average of 16 kuai everywhere else in Beijing that I've ever been to.
lucreziab
Re: Harbin Express: Childhood Eats Through a Grown-up Lens
That guoba rou doesn't even look good. There's a place by my house that's much cheaper and it tastes very good. 43 for Di San Qian? Tourist price.