Grape and Grain: Beijing's British Gastropub

Toot toot! That, eaters, was a tiny trumpet, announcing with modest fanfare the opening of Beijing’s first British-style gastropub. (OK, there’s Lido’s Park Side, but it’s just a bit too slick.) The Vineleaf’s tiny, unadorned hutong interior has a few tables at one end and a bar at the other, over which boss Will Yorke (also owner of the Vineyard Cafe) chalks up the dishes – almost all British (toot!) – on a giant board.

My cottage pie (RMB 72), served in a round ramekin, stood proud in a meadow of buttery green peas like a Great Wall watchtower. Will slowcooks his beef ‘n’ gravy ahead of time, then tops it off with fluffy mash before sticking it under the grill – winter comfort food at its most cuddly.

For a light lunch, the Scotch egg (RMB 40) was served steamy-hot alongside a dish of homemade piccalilli pickles – hats off to the moist, peppery pork and runny yellow yolk. Fish and chips (RMB 72) puts a twist on the classic with a trio of sauces (tartar, curry and mushy peas) and a tempurastyle fish batter made with sparkling water. Best of all, the Vineyard’s shop-bought crinkle fries are replaced by hand-cut, twice-cooked chips of distinction.

BrewDog’s 77 Lager (RMB 55) will soon be available on draft for the first time in Beijing, but for now beer fans can sup a rare pint of English ale Pedigree (RMB 40). And let’s hope they do, because for that authentic gastropub atmosphere (like The Eagle or The Anchor & Hope in London) you need a few ill-mannered boozers to give the bourgeois foodies something to tut about.

Standout dishes: Cottage pie, fish and chips

Also try: The Irish Volunteer, Park Side Bar and Grill

The Vineleaf Daily (closed Tuesdays) 11.30am-2.45pm, 6-10.15pm. 9 Jianchang Hutong (east of Yonghe Villas), Dongcheng District (6407 6308) 东城区箭厂胡同9号(近五道营胡同)

Click here to see the January issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photos: Nature Zhang