At first glance, this facsimile of a traditional snack street may resemble Beijing’s own Jiumen Xiaochi. But you’ll find no grill smoke, blanched tripe or dense Hui pastries here. What you get instead is the mellow, boozy fragrance of huangjiu and the remarkably tasty flavors of the Yangtze wetlands.

It doesn’t seem that long ago I was making wildly enthusiastic faces about Dali Renjia (my mouth was really full). But in the breakneck world of Beijing chow, chefs move on, places are sold, prices and salt levels rise. Soon enough, your order of tudou wan comes daubed in ketchup.

Thankfully, you can’t keep a good idea down. Wen Juan, one of the former Dali Renjia owners, has opened Haney right across the street.

Thai Express has merit as a handy lunchtime stop. Convenience and speed are the essence, with efficient service and a chilli-coded menu. Thai specialties like Tom Yam Goong (RMB 48) and soft-shell crab are featured, but Thai Express’ strengths are the simpler meat and vegetable curries.

Like almost everything in Soho Shangdu, this tiny cafe is hard to find. You might be charmed by cheerful owner Mela and her cute Chinglish messages, handwritten on chalkboards. If Amelie had her own cafe, it would have been like this. The prices certainly appeal – burgers start from just RMB 17. And the cheeseburgers are good, in a get-what-you-pay-for kind of way. The bun is dry, the whole package a bit roughand-ready, but the effect suits the cafe’s DIY style.

Move over, CourtYard – there’s a new “romantic fine-dining in historic setting” restaurant set to steal your guidebook crown. But Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB), run by former Maison Boulud GM Ignace Lecleir, is too lovely for mere tourists. The dining room itself is housed in a modern annex. However, tall windows capture the astonishing site, just outside of a hitherto forgotten, centuries-old Buddhist temple.