“Wokipedia” is a regular magazine column in which we introduce aspects of Chinese gastronomy, one letter at a time.

… umami 甘味/鲜味
One of five basic flavors (along with sweet, salty, bitter and sour), umami is easily added to any dish with a pinch of fine, white crystals of monosodium glutamate (味 精). Discovered as a flavor in 1908, umami refers to the savory, “brothy” taste that leaves a fine coating over the tongue. In Chinese cuisine, one typical umami-filled combination is chicken soup with cabbage and Chinese leeks.

At first glance, this facsimile of a traditional snack street may resemble Beijing’s own Jiumen Xiaochi. But you’ll find no grill smoke, blanched tripe or dense Hui pastries here. What you get instead is the mellow, boozy fragrance of huangjiu and the remarkably tasty flavors of the Yangtze wetlands.

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

You might know that Moscow Restaurant has been ladling up borscht since the days when Beijing still had a city wall (it opened in 1954). But it’s more than just old folks pining for pirozhki that keeps the place packed. This grand old commissary is, to my mind, the most stunning, echo-big dining space in town. Fifty or so tables are ensconced between cabbage green walls hung with red drapes that could double as outfits for circus elephants. The chandelier- strewn ceiling soars a dozen meters off the ground, held aloft by pillars as thick as redwoods. It’s quite awesome.

“Grape Press” is a regular magazine column in which we recommend wines to suit various occasions and price points.

Whether it’s a love affair with the grape or choosing that fine bottle to share with someone special, only fools rush in.

Champagne is often the first choice to whet just about any appetite, but its high acidity can be tough on stomachs, especially when served as an aperitif without food. Rosé wines can make for a cheerful mood, but not a lot of them are sold in China. As stock moves slowly, many are sadly out of condition by the time they are sold. While there are plenty of whites that make attractive partners, this month we’re focusing on that quintessentially Chinese color: red. But if you want to impress your date, don’t necessarily go for the well-trodden. Grand Cru Classé red Bordeaux may have a price tag that turns heads, but it is rarely seductive on the palate, especially when young.

This month’s wine selections are all hearty reds with plenty of body and staying power – lush, plush and what even wine professionals would term “sexy.”

When I contacted Lee Chang-Ju of the Korean Cultural Center, the cultural wing of the South Korean Embassy, I anticipated a trip to Wangjing. Or at least Wudaokou. Instead, he took me to Gaon, located just across the road from Phoenix City. That was one preconception destroyed – apparently, there is good Korean food inside the Fourth Ring Road.