2012 Feb 17 Back For More: Moscow Restaurant
"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.
You might know that Moscow Restaurant has been ladling up borscht since the days when Beijing still had a city wall (it opened in 1954). But it’s more than just old folks pining for pirozhki that keeps the place packed. This grand old commissary is, to my mind, the most stunning, echo-big dining space in town. Fifty or so tables are ensconced between cabbage green walls hung with red drapes that could double as outfits for circus elephants. The chandelier- strewn ceiling soars a dozen meters off the ground, held aloft by pillars as thick as redwoods. It’s quite awesome.
Military-attired singing troupes strut amongst diners as they nibble dry bread flecked with popping jewels of salmon roe (RMB 54, small dish), deep-fried chicken cutlets, overdone steaks (RMB 75-125) and salads where the main ingredient appears to be mayonnaise. The best dish I’ve had was something called “Moscow Seabass” (RMB 95), greyish fish buried beneath an ocean of creamy mash, cut through with softened onions and sliced boiled eggs.
Sure, the food doesn’t dazzle, but it’s all part of the experience. And decent Russian vodka can cost around RMB 200 a bottle, which makes this probably Beijing’s coolest place for a birthday party.
Standout dishes: “Moscow Seabass,” salmon roe
Also try: Traktirr Pushkin, Elephant
Moscow Restaurant Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm. Inside Beijing Exhibition Center, 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng District (6835 4454) 西城区西直门外大街135号北展中心内
Click here to see the February issue of the Beijinger in full.
Photo: Tom O'Malley
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