Marino D'Antonio Has Another Hit on His Hands with Pizza View

While Marino D’Antonio has long been renowned for his mastery of fine dining, he may soon become more famous for serving up casual slices of ‘za. His feats as former Sureño and current Opera Bombana chef are being met – if not surpassed – by Pizza View, his gourmet take on pizza-by-the-slice.
 

Located on the second floor of Parkview Green Mall (which also is home for his Opera Bombana digs), D’Antonio’s new restaurant lives up to its name. Pies are placed in plain view behind a glass display at the entry, in front of the fully visible oven. Patrons order the slices they want, watch the chef slide them in the oven and serve them moments later.

The speed of delivery makes Pizza View an ideal destination for a quick lunch.

But what truly makes it a haven for midday meals is the pies themselves. The crusts – made from the same imported Italian flour that has makes Opera’s bread famous – are divine, with a crisp exterior and doughy inner layer that will leave customers savoring each morsel.
 

“We use the same natural yeast we use in Opera, and imported flour and cheese from Italy,” D’Antonio said earlier this week as he greeted arriving guests. “The crust is so special because the pizza dough is fermented around 30 hours.”

Though served by the slice, each one is massive: the 20cm-wide portions are served cut into six larger-than-bite-sized pieces, are more than generous enough for a ravenous customer. And despite a heaping of toppings – like the cooked ham, artichokes, mozzarella, and mushrooms slathered onto the capricciosa, and the spicy salami covering the diavola – the pies aren’t heavy or oily. With a price of RMB 48 per swath, these factors add up to a deft balance.

It’s no exaggeration to say that Pizza View’s pies are among Beijing’s very best. Larger groups can opt for full 12-inch capricciosas and diavolas (RMB 82 and RMB 80, respectively). Several other options are only available in this bigger size, like the RMB 128 four formaggi (topped with gogonzola, taleggio, fontina and mozzarella), or the salmone affumicato (featuring smoked salmon, asparagus, mascarane and mozzarella, also priced at RMB 128).

Around the corner from the restaurant, D’Antonio has also opened a Pizza View gelato bar, where 50g tubs of pistachio and hazelnut and other flavors are available for RMB 28.

However, the real reason for a visit is the crispy, feather-light pizzas. The restaurant will be in soft opening until mid-November, when the menu will be expanded and a range of fresh juices added. But customers can stop by now for lunch, and sample the pizzas, gelato and more that are on offer. “The [PVG Mall’s] owner loves pizza, so he asked us to create a space where the people shopping and looking at the art pieces around the mall could have a slice,” D’Antonio says.

Please note: Pizza View are currently installing their gelato bar and will be closed during this period, gearing up for their official opening close to November 20.

Photos: Kyle Mullin