There’s no shortage of Cantonese-style hotel restaurants in Beijing, but Jin Zhuan is definitely above par. Invitingly bright, the Zen-like eggshell grey interior is carried through from the lobby, and antique vases, screens and carvings decorate the dining area. The menu has a Cantonese bias, with openers like Mu’er (“tree ear”) black fungus marinated in ferocious wasabi and a wonderful crab and beancurd soup stylishly served over a flame. Mains of spicy wok-fried prawn and pan-fried beef with mushroom are decent and the perfectly baked mini egg custard tarts will finish any meal with a wobbly flourish.