Beijing’s oldest Buddhist temple, Fayuan retains both an air of antiquity and the feel of a genuine active monastery. Built in memory of troops killed in Sui dynasty (581-618 AD) expeditions against Korean “rebels,” the origi-nal structure was commissioned in 645 AD by Emperor Tang Taizong. Over the years, it was destroyed by fire, water and earthquake several times; the current structures are from the Qing dynasty. Fayuan was also notorious as the prison of two important political leaders, Emperor Qin-zong (1125-1127) of the Northern Song and Xie Fangde, an official who starved to death rather than surrender to the Yuan army.
Today the temple houses the China Buddhist Institute and the China Buddhist Literature and Cultural Relics Museum. Highlights include the central wooden Buddha, Beijing’s longest reclining Buddha statue at 7.4 meters, and Ming dynasty bronze statues of lions and the Four Heavenly Kings. The grounds themselves are lovely, with several extremely old trees and famous lilac gardens. During the Qing dynasty, emperors and famous poets were inspired by the temple’s legendary flowers and came to write calligraphy and poetry within its walls.
What makes this temple truly fascinating, though, is its glimpse into monastic life. Saffron-robed monks go about their business in earnest, and while visitors are asked to “not interfere with religious activities,” you are free to observe. Some of them will strike up conversations with tourists. The ancient hutongs immediately sur-rounding the temple are also worth a wander.
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