Gulou / Beiluoguxiang / Jiugulou Dajie-鼓楼北锣鼓巷旧鼓楼大街

This rooftop hutong bar attached to the Penghao Theatre offers international dishes and homemade cakes along with a little library.

Nine Way, a menswear label designed and manufactured in Guangzhou, is both affordable and tasteful. Button-downs and jeans are available in bulk, but only in muted tones and natural fabrics. Girls, feel free to borrow from the boys here – sizes start small.

Openly stating its leanings by means of the rainbow colored store sign, this cafe and restaurant is a relaxed, wildly decorated setting for an afternoon coffee or a dinner of burgers or pizza.

For many of you, Mercante will be a dream come true: the one where you’re ambling down an ancient hutong and chance upon a softly lit restaurant serving comforting Italian cuisine. With just a couple dozen seats, a meal at this restaurant feels like dinner at a friend’s house – a friend with an easy manner, impeccable taste and mad kitchen skills. The bruschetta toppings of fresh ricotta, olive pate and a red and yellow pepper sauce are pleasant, but if you’re on a budget, skip straight to pasta and mains.

Wukan is no ordinary hair salon, but rather a “Hair Design Bureau.” Owner Daczong (who studied in Japan and previously worked at C. de France and Franck Provost) explains that they don’t just snip hair here – they provide individually tailored services to help clients “design” new looks, if they so desire. Haircuts start from RMB 260.

Owner Jeff wants you to treat Mai like home. That’s partly why the name sounds like “My.” That’s also why the beer fridge is out front, El Nido-style – so you can grab your own drink. The beer selection isn’t huge, but offers a variety that has become essential for any aspiring bar: Rogue, Chimay, BrewDog and more. Mai is really about the cocktails, though. Try the Old Fashioned or Queen’s Park Swizzle. The whiskey list is also good for Gulou. The selection is comparable to Amilal’s, and marginally cheaper too.

Sooner or later (better later), all of us encounter one of those irritating foreigners who speak in an affected, cartoonish hutong croak. You’ll probably run into that guy here. But that’s a risk worth taking, because Jam is one of Gulou's most dependable cocktail bars. Located at the top of a rickety spiral staircase, this bar and restaurant uses a good space well and serves good-quality drinks. The drinks don’t rival Mao Mao Chong, but you’ve more chance of finding a seat at Jam. There's Vedett on tap, and a menu of “Japanese-style Italian” dishes.

Modernista has settled down as a relaxed, artsy hipster joint, with checkerboard flooring and a 1930s vibe. Like other bars in the locale it has a DIY feel, and the owners have prepared a varied program of live music and cultural events including talks, screenings and book exchanges. They have a decent absinthe selection, with cheap draft Yanjing and bottled import beers. A selection of sweet wines and aperitifs lends the place a bit of Old World glamour.

The name says it all: This store revels in the essence of secondhand. Vintage Style's collection specializes in fringed trousers, fur-lined coats and men's loafers.

One of the better vintage shops around town, with a superior selection of leather jackets, retro midi dresses and faded tees.