Can't recommend enough the pigeon here, which I believe is their signature dish. The flavor is really surprising. These little birds are as succulent and juicy as Beijing Duck but with - dare I say it - a richer flavor. They're also plenty oily, but you get a little shot glass of neat lemon juice when you've finished to neutralize the grease. Cut into quarters, you dip the pieces into white pepper before eating. One bird per person should be plenty, which works out a good deal cheaper than kaoya.

The decor is bright, brash and typically Chinese, with mirrored ceilings and a 70s carpet. Other dishes we had of note were Taiwanese appetizers of sliced beef, seaweed rolls, soy-boiled egg and pig's ear, a very sweet dish of shrimp with pineapple, and san bei ji - 3 cup chicken of rice alcohol, vinegar and soy, and a taiwanese pork sausage eaten cold with slices of raw garlic.