It's hard to fathom the broad constituency for these restaurants. Is it just an exercise in self-deception, a symptom of the expat blues? Are patrons of Steak and Eggs pining for the greasy diner of Hollywood lore (e.g. Seinfeld) that are actually dying out in North America because people there have realized they have tastebuds? Seriously, who pays more than 50 kuai for an airline-quality western omelet with limp homefries and a watery cup of coffee?

Surely people don't come here for the service, right? On what turned out to be his last visit, a friend was berated by the owner's wife for asking that his bloody steak, which he'd ordered well done, be cooked more. Said she, huffily, "you look pale, you need more blood in your diet." As for the boss, ever noticed how uncomfortable he is around patrons? He once catered a birthday party I attended and the kids were afraid of him. Maybe it was because, in full view of all the guests, he screamed at one of his hapless employees who was reheating mystery-meat burgers. Happy Birthday.

And the atmosphere? Please.

Don't we have countless better food choices in Beijing -- even in the 'Merican category?