by far one of the absolute finest
Everything is slightly magical at SALT restaurant. From the colorful mosaic entry wall to the minimalist orange-grey dining area, and smiles smiles smiles from most of the wait staff it all feels like a fairy tale come to life. The amazing lounge-ambience music, obviously put together by a person that understands that sounds and space has EVERYTHING to do with the feeling and experience of a place, and concept.
Came to try Esteves'goodies, because i absolutely cannot get enough of the food at this place. While Chef Ana is busy in the kitchen, commanding that "ship" with a big smile,peacefully laughing with her staff, teaching them, and extremely concentrated when plating (by the way i do not understand how she keeps so calm and cool when the restaurant is so packed and busy) the woman running the show is owner Gaby Alves, one of Beijing's longtime pioneer in contemporary cuisine. Dressed in a striking black suit she has spent 2 years whipping the staff into shape. It’s been a hectic time for both Esteves and Alves, the restaurant seems to be always packed and they seem to be improving in every way. these two ladies work so smoothly and pleasantly together. no wonder why they always win awards, they attract and are a target for everyone. half a step away from perfection (if it wasn't located on top of a horrid bar that takes away alittle bit form the experience)
Started off with home-made bread: whole wheat,white, and Gaby's special cheese bread that is to die for. accompanied by a very fine compound butter. I sampled the tasting menu. started off with a light chili foam, great south american heritage, green chilis and roasted corn finished with an elegant hint of truffle, nicely done Esteves. Followed by my favorite dish: the octopus Carpaccio; thinly sliced tender octopus, with two different sauces, two different textures, two different temperatures. On one side a warm citrus capers and the other a roasted pepper chimichurri. topped with crispy potatoes that gave the dish such a character. third course was a pork marinated in apricot and soy over a bed of creamy polenta atop: a citrus greens (which again... what she has done with balance of textures and flavours is extraordinary.
then i went for the sole fish fillet. very fresh and light, served with a warm emulsion of tarragon and rock Salt. finished with the chocolate souffle, and a cheese plate; a very interesting selection of cheese, from local to the finest of the french. the wines were absolutely well paired (xanadu australian dragon)
i cannot say how impressed i always am, every time i visit salt, a combination of two powerful and very professional women who obviously know what they are doing because everything from the food, service, and ambiance create such an experience, it is a ceremony. kudos to Salt for being such a strong institution, for excelling at what they do. and kudos to Ana and Gaby for their dedication.
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