A plate of delicate, pinkish veal tenderloin with artichokes showed this plainly, dressed up not simply with pillowy, crisp-edged sweetbreads but also with oysters and a sauce of black truffles. There was sweetness to it as well as hints of brine, and a funky earthiness to counter both textures, soft and rough. An appetizer cup of chawan mushi, a Japanese egg custard, enlivened with morels and uni and topped with a piece of crisp lotus root, did as well, its silky, steaming richness enveloping the cool saltiness of the uni, and softening the vegetal crunch of root.