Sometimes classic Indian food gets overlooked in Beijing’s cacophony of food destinations. Guijie, Houhai, Qianmen, Chaoyang Park, Sanlitun and the hutongs between offer every cuisine imaginable; some of it good, some not so good. It’s a shame for the top-notch restaurants because they often get lost in the crowd. As much as I love Chinese food and the occasional pizza, deep down I am an unabashed Indian food lover.

When I am in the mood for Indian food, I go to Ganges. For me Ganges has become a Beijing tradition and I have never left disappointed. Service is impeccable, the restaurant is clean and comfortable and the menu is extensive leaving little to want. An addition to the menu here and a new location there notwithstanding, over the years Ganges has changed little. And why would it? It works.

If you are new to Indian food then I suggest asking the manager for advice. At 50 + pages, the menu is a case study in excellent Indian food and best navigated by someone in the field. My suggestion is to start with the basics: samosa, butter chicken curry, barbecue, naan and a lassi or kingfisher. Go easy on the spice your first time out. Capisci?

If you are new to Ganges but not new to Indian food, dust off your stretchy spandex and go Mike Tyson on the menu. Order all your favorites at once knowing that if you can’t pack it all in during this visit they will package it up in individual plastic containers for your microwaving pleasure later. Go ahead, get your spice on. Don’t hold back. You know your Indian and Ganges is where the rubber meets the road.

As a final tidbit, each of Ganges four locations offers a different dining experience. Lidu is quiet and family friendly. Sanlitun is hip with an outside terrace. The Place is decked out and formal. And Haidian is filled with students and techies from surrounding international companies. Choose accordingly.