Authentic Cantonese in a Tiny Beijing Hutong: Xiao Che Tian Pin

Nailao is the classic northern/Imperial dessert snack and can be found at a number of spots around Beijing (for more on lao Beijing snacks, including nailao, check out this month’s Beijinger magazine). It’s a lot harder, however, to find good versions of its Cantonese cousin, shuangpi nai.

Shuangpi nai (双皮奶), or double skinned milk, is a sweet milk pudding dessert made with milk, egg whites, and sugar. Often it will be served with a topping to add a twist – usually fruit, red bean, or even chocolate. In the south, it’s typically sold at small snack shops which offer a mix of sweet and savory small dishes.

In Beijing, such snack shops are rare, but Xiao Che Tian Pin (小彻甜品) offers an authentic Cantonese experience in a tiny Beijing hutong. The shop is easy to miss, just off busy Dongsibei Dajie in a hutong that looks so small that two people can’t walk through it shoulder to shoulder. The interior is what you’d expect at a small hutong café – cute and playful with a DIY feel.

Shuangpi nai is what most come here for. A variety of toppings are on offer (the traditional red bean and more modern coconut are favorites) and all are reasonable at RMB 8-10. Hongdou sha (红豆沙), or red bean soup, is also a great option if you’re looking for a non-dairy dessert. Most of the desserts can be served hot or cold, so you’ll be able to order to suit your mood and the temperature outdoors.

While the desserts are a stand out, ignoring Xiao Che’s savory options would be a mistake. Sticking to the Cantonese theme, their chang fen (肠粉) are offered with a variety of fillings. As a dim sum lover, chang fen, or a rice flour wrapper stuffed with meat or shrimp, is always a must order item. Xiao Che does a more homestyle version, adding egg to the wrapper. It differs from what you’d find at a weekend morning dim sum brunch, but it’s still very good. A few porridges (zhou 粥) and meat over rice options (zheng fan 蒸饭) are on offer as well.

Few items on the menu run more than RMB 10, making it an affordable spot for a quick stop or a place to linger over a snack while looking through their mini library or surfing the net. With all the interesting spots to shop around Dongsi shitiao and Longfusi, it’s also a good place to rest after a day of shopping.

Xiao Che Tian Pin Dian小彻甜品店, Dongsibei Dajie, 52 Jiaozi Hutong (across from Dongsi san tiao) 东四北大街轿子胡同52号 (010) 6401 6981