Barista&GoodWood: Swapping Coffee Beans for Vermouth on Wudaoying Hutong
After five years of perking Beijingers up with his Barista Coffee cafe on Wudaoying Hutong, Alex Liu has decided to turn his focus to a mellower, later hour crowd.
Having expanded his Barista Coffee brand to two other locations in Sanlitun and Yizhuang, he now has wiggle room at his original stomping grounds, and has recruited Oasis Feng (of top-notch Beijing bar Janes and Hooch fame) to serve vermouths, aperitifs and (what else?) coffee flavored cocktails at the now revamped bar that he has renamed Barista&GoodWood.
Oasis – a broad-shouldered and gruff-voiced dongbei-hailing bartender with impeccable English – elevates the seemingly straightforward drinks with subtle flourishes and well-balanced mixing.
Take, for instance, their RMB 80 Vermouth Cooler. Its Hayman Slow Gin and Dolan sweet vermouth are balanced by orange bitters and, more creatively, a slightly spicy and bitter nutmeg garnish. The cocktail is whipped to foamy perfection and served in an elegant, goblet-like glass.
If you're partial to drier drinks you should instead try the Grape&Grapefruit (also RMB 80). Absinthe gives the cocktail serious heft, while its grapefruit dry vermouth, Amaro Montenegro, and Regen's orange bitter provide a sour nose, palate-coating mouthfeel, and citrusy aftertaste.
Considering Liu's smash success in the cafe arena, you should also ask for an off-menu cold drip negroni. If they have the ingredients on hand, you'll enjoy the deeply rich flavor of this coffee -laced cocktail, not to mention its faintly chocolatey aftertaste.
The decor evokes a hip New York loft thanks to the low ceilings, wall length padded bench, and squat wooden tables and chairs. Lattice divides some of the bar's shelves, and with the wicker light fixtures, add to the bar's crafty and low key ambiance.
Considering the lack of cocktail bars in the Wudaoying area these days, and the lane's surplus of snooty cafés, Liu made the right move by shaking this spot up. It's also laudable to see one of Beijing's most successful cafe owners forgo bland corporate franchising and instead step out of his comfort zone. All that and more will lure us back to this charming cocktail joint to raise a glass again soon.
Read our review of Liu's Barista Speciality Cafe in Sanlitun here.
Barista&GoodWood
Daily 6pm-2am. 28 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District (150 1080 9311)
东城区五道营胡同28号
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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photos: Uni You
