Food Without Borders? An Interview With Sanlitun's Newest Eatery Charcoal

Charcoal Seeks to Create Food Without Borders

Irene Li, Associate Editor | Jul 21, 2022 12:44 pm | Add a comment | 407 reads

Sanlitun's newest restaurant, Charcoal, wants to go beyond fusion food. They're setting out to make something entirely different -- food combinations as a culmination of past dining experiences. I recently interviewed Hansen, Charcoal's head chef, and Siyu Ren, the restaurant's designer, to find out more about this concept.

First, can you tell us more about the concept behind Charcoal?
H: The idea is to present interesting dishes in their own right. I previously studied culinary arts in Paris and I want to present the different techniques I learned there in my own dishes.

What makes Charcoal really stand out?
H: One unique thing about Charcoal is we don't really want to define our food. We believe that the different cooking techniques or spices we use should not be limited to specific kinds of culture. Yes, it is true that certain flavors might go together, but that doesn't mean we can only combine these flavors in a certain way.

If you could pick one dish that represents charcoal, what would it be?
H: I would say it is either the fried rice or the pigeon. I prepare the fried rice with Thai basil sauce, then add a little maafe sauce to give it a little west African twist.

The pigeon is cooked medium rare, which is the same way it is done in France. This way the pigeon is at its most tender, and the original flavors of the meat remains. When I was living abroad, I really liked jerk chicken, a famous Jamaican dish, so I added jerk paste in it to liven things up a bit.

Let's talk about the interior design. Does the name Charcoal also inspire the design?
SR: We draw inspiration for our interior designs and dishes from charcoal fire. Even our tables are made of charcoal wood. We want customers to be completely relaxed, to be able to chill and chat a bit after dinner.

Have you two ever worked at a restaurant before?
SR: Not at all! We’ve had zero experience in the restaurant industry. We were best friends growing up. We’ve known each other since we were both little. Hansen knows how to cook and I know how to design. The idea of two best friends starting a business sounds very youthful to me. It sounds like something people our age should do.

I also feel like we shouldn’t let our college degrees decide what kinds of professions we do. I studied architectural design but that doesn't mean I have to stick with that industry. Hansen actually studied bioengineering before, yet he found his true calling in cooking. He took a deep dive and taught himself a lot of things about cooking.

What are some of the biggest challenges the restaurant has faced so far?
SR: Well, the pandemic has definitely added some uncertainties. There were repeated outbreaks in March in other cities, which led to shipping delays with construction materials and furniture. The restaurant was supposed to open in May but then the in-house dining ban happened. We were finally able to open in June when Beijing welcomed in-house dining back.

How has the business been doing since Charcoal opened?
SR: Business has been doing great so far. Our restaurant attracts consumers who are down to experience something new and are into a casual dining experience at the same time. We are very happy to present something that’s both from my understanding of the design and his understanding of the flavors.

What are customers' favorite dishes?
H: It has to be the basil fried rice, the Jamaican jerk pigeon, or the charcoal grilled scallops.

How has your experience studying abroad influenced the way you cook?
H: One thing I realized in France is that chefs there are able to freely explore the boundaries of diversified cuisines. For French chefs, food is completely without borders. The chefs there borrow flavors from different cuisines and mix and match these flavors based on their own interpretation. This idea also speaks to my heart. I am more focused on whether the dish is tasty or not, and less on whether the dish is authentic or not. Beijing is a very inclusive city and as someone from Beijing, I have deep affection for the city I grew up in. I want more people to be open-minded to this kind of concept.