Baoguo Si (Compensate the Country Temple) 报国寺

Founded in 1103, this temple is perhaps notable only for its history, though antique collectors may fancy the onsite market as a welcome change from busy Panjiayuan. Poets and picnickers once flocked to Baoguo for its high pavilion and crabapple orchard, neither of which is accessible today. Inner halls are not open to visitors, but the exteriors and an original archway have been preserved. The China Collector’s Association sponsors the outer halls and sells coins, porcelain and other collectibles, while vendors sell cheaper goods in the courtyard. Particularly interesting are the lianhuanhua, small picture books that had their heyday in pre-1949 Shanghai but were later co-opted by the Communists. From Baoguo, one can wander to nearby Fayuan Temple, Niujie Mosque and dozens of shops selling classic Beijing street food.