Innovative food, spectacular view

Joined: Dec 16, 2009
Posts: 23
Review of Grill 79
4

Was fortunate enough to visit this restaurant on a day when the hills to the west and to the north were visible - wow.

If you know and love Beijing (and probably if you don't) the view from up here is mesmerizing. You feel like you could hit the south train station or the forbidden city with a rock, or step down on top of the CCTV "pants" or into the rainbow bulls-eye of Workers' Stadium. It is so amazing how much you can see, that once I was down to ground level again I found it surprising that I could not see the China World 3 tower from anywhere I'd find myself at any given time.

The food here is also good. The Kiwi chef has spent a lot of time in Japan and the diversity of culinary influences comes through in his cooking. I had been told back in January that this was going to be a Tuscan steakhouse, and it isn't. What it is is potentially more, with a selection of preciously sourced, prepared (and priced) steaks complemented by a selection of dishes that reflect a culinary appreciation and adeptness with both European and Asian cooking styles. At least half a dozen homemade mustards to pair with the steaks. I was impressed (particularly liked the dark beer). The desserts (we tried the "pistachio soil" with green apple sorbet and the vintage chocolate torte with black pepper ice cream and fresh raspberries) did nothing to allay the vertiginous sense that we might actually be in heaven.

Service also sharp, major caveat is that as amazing as it is up here on a good day, on anything but a great day, it's a bit depressing.