Café FLO "Goes to Pot," Making Way for Cocottine's Rustic European Flavors in Parkview Green

Under pressure from Parkview Green management (who like many of the city's burgeoning malls require their leaseholders to update their menus and/or decor every couple of years, to prove relevancy), Groupe FLO recently decided that time had come for their Café FLO concept to shape up or ship out.

It was then that Café FLO went to pot, quite literally, making way for Cocottine, a rustic, family-style restaurant which is named after a small French saucepan.

The gamble, by and large, has paid off. Gone are the baby blues and dark wood stylings that made Café FLO both chic but a little dated. Now, they've been replaced with brighter, fresher greens and golds for an effect that makes the restaurant less stuffy. Aiding that airiness is also a "patio" space out back complete with lawn-style chairs and fairy light-adorned trees that (if it wasn't for the unmistakable sound of footsteps echoing in a mall) almost trick you into thinking you're outside.

That freshness also makes it to the plates, which are bright and brimming with flavors informed by French and Mediterranean cuisine. Highlights include the tapas-style sharing plates of crunchy codfish croquetas with a tangy citrus tomato sauce (RMB 78) and kataifi-wrapped prawns with pear dressing (RMB 68). There are also a whole host of salads and cold cut platters to pick on, alongside the mains. 

Cocottine's signature dish of slow-cooked crayfish in a tomato bisque (RMB 98) is likely to appeal to Chinese diners as much as it is to foreigners (don't worry, they come with a how-to guide for the uninitiated and appropriate splash-proof attire) and are served in the restaurant's eponymous enamel-coated cast-iron cocotte, a nice touch that provides plenty of color to fill your Moments. If you're looking for something a little less hands-on, the Milanese beef osso bucco i.e. veal shank with mashed potato (RMB 195) is as delicious as it is tender.

If you're really out to impress, the "Cannes Cruise" (RMB 385) packed with six oysters, shrimp, and a salmon ceviche should do the trick but we can't honestly say we'd find the occasion to order a boat filled with crushed ice in the basement of Parkview Green.

In all, Cocottine marks another successful outing by Groupe FLO, boiling down to a fun, colorful, and creative European dining experience whose menu is packed with dishes and drinks to suit almost every occasion, whether it's coffee and cake, a quick and healthy lunch, or a slap-up dinner. It can be a little overwhelming at times, but we hope that this new concept has the same resiliency and staying power as the unassuming pot from which it gets its name.

Cocottine
Daily, 10am-10pm. LG2-22, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东大桥路9号侨富芳草地LG2-22

READ: Some of Beijing's Best Peranakan Cuisine Can Be Found in an Unlikely Alleyway Locale

Photos: Tom Arnstein