Annie of Annie’s revealed

As it continues to win awards and remain a hugely popular spot in spite of the vitriol aimed at it by its critics, Annie’s is a true Beijing institution. But who is Annie? Does she exist? Indeed she does. As Annie’s celebrates the launch of its seventh restaurant, we tracked down general manager Annie Lee and asked her about the restaurant’s history, her own cooking skills, and how she responds to the haters.

Some of our readers will be surprised to discover there actually is an Annie behind Annie’s! Why do you keep a low profile?

Yes, actually there is! But Annie’s is a brand. To hold the brand’s reputation, what we need is the endeavor of the whole Annie’s team. As for why I keep a low profile, I think everyone should do his or her work with a down-to-earth attitude, not promoting themselves everywhere. The best promotion is to perfect every detail of the job and give Annie’s customers our best service.

What’s your background? How did you end up opening an Italian restaurant?

I don’t have a showy background, contrary to what people might imagine. I’m just a native Beijing woman.The origins of Annie’s are all down to my personal experience. After I graduated, I was assigned to a research institution which later established a joint enterprise with a well-known Italian company. I was appointed to the new company, where my daily job was to contact with the Italian supervisors. As time passed, I learned about Italian culture, customs, and of course Italian food through our communications. I am a food-lover, and Italy’s culinary culture attracted me. I learned more about the development of Italian cuisine, from Marco Polo to modern Italian food. Having Italian food is a kind of enjoyment. I used to think how nice it would be if one day I could open an Italian restaurant in Beijing, and as I wished, my dream came true in 1999.

Why Italian food?

Italian food is not just a cuisine or the procedure of enjoying elegant and delicate cooking, but the culture that it represents. Italian culture shocked me, attracted me and captured my attention, and so I chose it when I came to open my restaurant.

And why did you name it Annie’s?

When I started my business in 1996, I already had a cafe in the Sanlitun area. At that time, there was a German writer who often came to visit, drinking coffee, chatting with friends and sometimes finishing his writing there. After he visited a few times, we became friends. One day, he asked me unexpectedly “why don’t you give your store a foreign name that is easy for foreigners to remember?” I said: “is that important?” He responded: “Absolutely. Just call it Annie’s. This name fits you and your restaurant.” I thought this was a good idea, so I took his advice. I love this name. Annie’s represents the softness and beauty of women. Moreover, it makes people feel a certain kindness. Finally, it is easy to remember. In 1999, I used this name when I started the restaurant. Even the font of the “Annie’s” logo was suggested by that German customer.

I guess there weren’t many Western restaurants around when you opened the first Annie’s at the west gate of Chaoyang Park. What was it like at that time?

Your question is quite interesting. Everyone knows that Beijing has changed a lot during this past decade. You leave this year and when you come back next year, you won’t even be able to tell the roads you were once familiar with. In 1999, when I opened our first Italian restaurant at the west gate of Chaoyang Park, there was nobody on the street after 10pm. There weren’t so many diners in other restaurants either, no lights on the street, just the feeling of desolation. I took over a bar that was on the verge of closing.

Was the restaurant an immediate hit? Or did it take longer to build a loyal group of customers?

Five months after opening, the restaurant started doing well. Actually, at the very beginning, I didn’t have any know-how. Through four or five months’ discovery and improvement, the restaurant gradually adapted to the customers’ demand and earned some popularity. We now have a loyal group of customers.

Are your cooks Italian?

No.

So do you worry about people accusing Annie’s of not being as authentic as some other Italian restaurants? What would you say to your critics?

This is not my concern. We continue to improve our dishes and services, regularly inviting specialists, including Italian chefs, to give professional training to our staff. Also, we have already hired some Italian culinary experts to join our management group. Our purpose is to make our restaurant into a more Italian style and authentic Italian restaurant.

What’s the secret of your restaurants’ popularity?

Frankly, there’s no such secret. If I have to say something, it is hard work, every day. I require my team and my staff to “move a little forward every day.”

Do you pay attention to other Italian restaurants in Beijing? Where do you think Annie’s sits among all the Italian restaurants in Beijing?

There are lots of Italian restaurants in Beijing. I pay close attention, and have been doing so for years. I learned a lot of virtues from them, and also I brought these into my work. As for Annie’s position, I don't think Annie’s “sits” anywhere. It’s just a home-style Italian restaurant that is welcomed by foreigners.

Restaurants like that of two-star Michelin chef Claudio Sadler have set a new high standard for Italian dining in Beijing, but Annie’s remains a “people’s favorite.” Do you think you have anything in common with the top-end restaurants?

The common factor is that we can all provide a different service for different customers.

What type of person is Annie’s for?

Our concentration is on being a “home-style Italian restaurant.”

I want to have food from Annie’s delivered to my home; how long do I have to wait?

It depends on the distance, but basically between 30 and 60 minutes.

Do you cook?

No, but I know how to cook.

Can you cook Italian food?

Yes. The dish I make best is Penne Arrabbiata.

And what’s your favorite Italian dish?

My favorite is arugula pizza.

What are some of your own favorite restaurants?

Besides Annie’s, my favorite restaurant is the Italian restaurant inside the Kempinski Hotel [Trattoria La Gondola]. That restaurant has a great ambiance, and the food is excellent. Dining there is a wonderful experience.

Finally, what is the future for Annie’s?

Annie’s slogan is “in Beijing, we are your first choice.” This is not only our slogan, but also the direction of our hard work. I believe that with a sustained effort, we can achieve this.

Comments

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So after being proud not increasing the prices of their food for more than a decade, suddenly two price increases in a short time of period....interesting.

was the last time i ordered three