Sometimes, natural disasters have a silver lining. Baiyangdian, the largest lake on the North China Plain, was formed in 1517 when the Yang-cun River dike burst, causing nine rivers to flood the area simultaneously. Now, this expanse of water and reed-filled marshland includes 146 smaller lakes, and is described as the “Venice of Hebei province.” Boat is the main form of transportation for locals and visitors alike, and visitors can load up on their Omega-3s with six-course fish feasts served in many local inns. By day, you can rent a rowboat for a few hours (up to 6 people, RMB 60-150) or a motorboat (RMB 200-500 for 12 or more people) to tour the beautiful marshland, lush with lotus blossoms, water chestnuts and water lilies. At night, Baiyangdian’s most unique and romantic lodging can be found in the stationary houseboats at Yuren Leyuan (“Fisherman’s Paradise”). The bungalows are equipped like standard hotel rooms, and if you want some breakfast or a ride back to shore, you can “roger” up the ferryman with a walkie-talkie and have him send a boat. (Just be careful when you’re planning that secret tryst, as all guests are on the same frequency!) RMB 30 (lake entrance ticket). Anxin County, Baod-ing City, Hebei province. (031 2511 6352) 白洋淀风景区，河北省保定市安新县
Floating house south of Yuren Leyuan (渔人乐园): RMB 240 (weekends up to RMB 280). (131 1169 1835)
Approx. Distance: 162km
Bus: Take a long-distance bus from either Tianqiao (6302 9409) or Muxiyuan (6726 7149) long-distance bus station. A tourist bus (weekends from Apr 15 to Oct 15 and all national holidays) leaves from Dongdaqiao bus terminal (6593 7338).
Car: Take the Jingshi (京石) Expressway to Xushui (徐水) exit, turn left and follow signs toward Tianjin for 12km. Then pass a tollgate and continue for 20km to Anxin (安新). Or take the Jingkai (京开) Expressway to Bazhou (霸州) and merge onto the Baojin (Baoding-
Tianjin) Expressway toward Baoding (保定). Get off at the Rongcheng (容城) exit and follow signs to Baiyangdian.
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