By the restaurateurs behind Middle 8th, Hong Lu takes a fresh look at lao Beijing cuisine. An order of chilled zhajiang mian was sweet and punchy, and we all cooed at the “Four Old Beijing Specials”. This sassy, self-assembly concept combines papery pancakes, preserved ham, shrimp-flavored scrambled eggs and some wickedly salty-sour pickles with a flavor that lingered, not altogether pleasantly, for hours. Sweet and sour fried fish was another highlight, balanced dramatically like a classical bronze sculpture, its sticky sauce coating shatteringly crisp skin and silkily soft meat.
Despite some overassertive flavors, Hong Lu is doing more than just sexing-up local favorites. With a bit of creative license, they’re casting light on the true scope of Beijing cuisine
Location
Contact
No event here now.