For a state-run joint, this upper-floor eatery surprised us with its congenial atmosphere, alert waitresses, sunny windows, and fetching tableware. Operated by the provincial government of Guiyang (Guizhou’s capital), the restaurant specializes in food at once sour and spicy, with preserved meats, pickled vegetables and an abundance of zaola (fermented chillis) dominating the menu.
Vegetarians have a lot of scope here (though several dishes on the menu feature dog, so tread carefully). Exotic edible plants native to the region are flown in weekly; they’re fun to try, but it can be a lottery of freshness. On one visit our wild ferns tasted like they’d just been picked; on a subsequent visit, they were bland and wilted.
Fish dishes here are commendably fresh and satisfying, and the neutral white meat accommodates
the tart spiciness of other offerings especially
well. Don’t visit without ordering shui doufu, a peasant dish of rough-hewn tofu chunks made on-site and served with a pungent dipping sauce just a few shades milder than Japanese natto. A safe bet for fussy eaters is Guizhou’s answer to red-braised pork (hongshao rou, RMB 42), a spectacular, dome-shaped sculpture of layers of colorful vegetables and melt-in-the-mouth meat. Round off your meal like the locals do – knock back a shot of fruit-infused heinuomi jiu, a traditional rice-based digestif.
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