Back for More: Wish

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

Sinking my teeth into pillowy chunks of their steamed weever (RMB 98), my first thought was, “Why don’t more people know about this place?”

The food is on par with Da Dong’s, in both quality and presentation. Dianping users regularly award this restaurant the maximum five stars, raving about its idyllic atmosphere and contemporary spins on classic Chinese dishes.

Admittedly, the dreamy fare, dazzling service and romantic Lido Park views have made us a bit biased. We felt we’d been dropped into a fairy tale, where attentive fuwuyuan dressed in colorful garb and tables decorated with bonsai trees were an everyday occurrence.

Three separate menus mean you won’t be starved for selection, though you’ll quickly weed out the half-hearted attempts at Western fusion food. Wish offers everything from the classics (kung pao chicken, RMB 76) to the exotic (spicy hedgehog, RMB 68) to the positively luxurious (bird’s nest in Hawaiian papaya, RMB 248). While prices veer towards the expensive side, affordable options like the spicy noodles with chicken (RMB 48) help even out the bill.

There’s no fowl play with their fried duck (RMB 48), which was lightly battered and fried to a sublime crisp without being oily. You can also tell a lot about a restaurant by how they handle the simple things. The Cantonese stir-fry (RMB 78), a medley of vegetables in XO sauce, would have converted my younger, veggie-hating self long ago if I’d only come upon it earlier.

Every bite was a reward – even hours later, as they’re light on oil, salt and starch and have banned the use of MSG. Like we said, it’s hard to believe this place is real. But real it is. Just wait till you try that fish.

Also try: Da Dong, Karaiya Spice House

Wish 梧桐 Daily 11.30am-midnight. 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Lido Garden (700m east of Xiaoyun Qiao on the East Fourth Ring Road), Chaoyang District (6438 1118/8883, 133 0112 2787) www.wutong-wish.com 朝阳区芳园西路6号东四环霄云桥东700米路北丽都花园南门

By subway: 3.5km northeast of Sanyuanqiao station (Line 10)

Click here to see the October issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photo courtesy of Wish