Back For More: Hutong Pizza

Why did the hutong hipster burn his mouth eating pizza? Because he ate it before it was cool. Thank you, ladies and gentlemen – I’ll be here all week.

Joking aside, Hutong Pizza is a rock, and I’m not referring to its crust, which remains suitably thin and chewy. It has been a Beijing stalwart for years, even as other pizza joints have come and gone. In fact, it was one of the original catalysts for this whole “Western restaurants popping up in hutongs” trend.

On our most recent visit, we were quite enthusiastic about the Mediterranean pizza (RMB 128 for a large rectangle). It comes packed with mozzarella, pepperoni, eggplant, zucchini and olives, and it’s layered with pesto and feta. At some point the subtler ingredients start to run together into a single burst of flavor – in a good way. The roast chicken and bacon pizza (RMB 123 for a large) was also delicious, though the bacon didn’t quite assert itself with the swagger we were expecting.

If you’re not in a pie state of mind, there’s pasta and salad, too. We had the chicken parmigiana (RMB 50) off the specials board. The chicken was on the tough side, but we gobbled it up anyway because it had been so long since we’d had the dish in Beijing. (No, we haven’t made it to one of Mao Mao Chong’s chicken parm nights yet. Yes, we plan to go soon.)

While there may be better pizzas to be found around town, there’s a certain appeal about Hutong Pizza. Their pies are clean, simple and generous, like the best possible version of a pizza made by friends in their (courtyard) home.

Also try: Pizza+, LMPlus

Hutong Pizza Daily 11am-11pm, 9 Yindingqiao Hutong, Xicheng District (8322 8916) 西城区银锭桥胡同9号

By subway: 1.2km northwest of Nanluogu Xiang station (Line 6)

This article originally appeared on page 23 in the February issue of the Beijinger.

Photo: Mitchell Pe Masilun