Savor the Java, Skip the Sweets at Seesaw Coffee

Having already carved out a niche among Shanghai coffee bean fiends, Seesaw Coffee has gone beyond its 14 branches in the Pearl City, making its Beijing debut at WF Central Mall. When the brand was founded in Shanghai in 2012 it made a splash with its inviting vibe, which they’ve carried over to their Beijing branch. It's chicly modern yet also understated, which is a refreshing change of pace from the boldly flashy and futuristic look that many new cafes are sporting (Bracket comes to mind).
 

Aside from the light and bright ambiance and its stylish counter (situated like an island in the center of the cafe, instead of the standard affixing to a far wall), Seesaw’s WF Central cafe also carries over its Shanghai sister stores' penchant for high-end beans. Aside from Colombian, Ethiopian and Kenyan beans (all RMB 38 per cupful), the limited selection slot on their menu is currently occupied by Blue Mountain (RMB 58). We'd yet to try this Jamaican coffee variety and were pleased to find that it boasted enough caffeine to leave us instantly peppy. It also featured a palate-tingling high level of acidity and bitterness. It’d be too tough on the system to have more than once per day, but one cup makes for an invigorating treat.
 

Sadly the slice of black forest cake (RMB 38) we tried paled in comparison to the quality of the coffee. It was a bit tough and icy, as if it'd just been lifted out the freezer. What's more: the slice of cake tasted even blander than some of the most understated "sweets" we've had here in China with recipes catering to local sugar adverse palates.
 

Lackluster as that black forest cake was, the other desserts on offer are intriguing enough to give Seesaws' food menu a second chance, notably slices of apple cheesecake and the very interesting cheesecake topped with yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit). The shop gets points for originality with those items, making us wish we'd ordered them instead.

But even if there wasn't a single worthwhile dessert on offer, the high quality, reasonably priced beans, and slick-yet-cozy ambiance are enough to make Seesaw a clear standout in Beijing's ever crowded cafe scene.

Seesaw Coffee
Daily, 10am-10pm. 3/F WF Central, 269 Wangfujing Jie, Dongcheng District.
东城区王府井大街269 号王府中环东座三楼322B

READ: Suits, Bikes, and Art: 3 Offbeat Beijing Caffeine Havens

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Photos: Kyle Mullin