They Sell Seashells (and Some Killer Sukayaki) at Jiuyao Yipiao on Xiaoyun Lu

When the temperature drops and the ruthless wind starts howling, it’s a sure sign for us to warm up at the nearest izakaya and dig into a steamy bowl of sukiyaki (Japanese hot pot), hearty dishes, and some warm, soothing sake.

Our favorite spot for such a nourishing Japanese feast these days is Jiuyao Yipiao. Though it's been open since last autumn, the restaurant remains a true hidden gem in the back of Xiaoyun Food Street (next to Dotcom Bakery). Its decor, for one, is instantly memorable, its yard surrounded by a low wall decorated with piles of shells, its friendly entranceway marked by a big 門, and a narrow alley-like front corridor leading to the dining area past a handful of private rooms.

Beijing-born owner Yang Songtao studied and lived in Japan before using what he had learned to open this eatery in his hometown. During his time in the Land of the Rising Sun, he honed his expertise in readying various seashells and quality seafood. That specialization shows here, with over 30 varieties of shellfish on offer, with shelf lives varying from four to 30 days. You can get grilled oysters for RMB 75 (five pieces), scallops cooked with miso (RMB 128), oyster hot pot (RMB 180), along with a special menu featuring seasonal dishes.

The grilled sea snails (RMB 30) were the largest we've seen in Beijing. Newbies may be surprised to find that they have a crunchy texture and a sweet finish and are served with a special savory sauce. The sashimi platter, meanwhile, couldn’t be fresher (a bowl of sea urchin, anyone?). We also loved the daikon miso soup pot with beef tendon, the broth a deft balance between the miso and mirin (a rice wine condiment) and the beef tendon, which is tender and deliciously glutinous. Not to mention the radish, which bursts with flavor from having been stewed in the pot.

The star of the meal, however, was the wagyu beef sukiyaki. Originating from Kansai in Japan, this version of hot pot doesn't call for patrons to throw all the ingredients in the pot to boil. Instead, the pot is used as a grill to sauté the wagyu beef slices, which are delightfully moreish and made all the more flavorful once dipped in raw egg. Afterward, you caramelize the onion and add various other vegetables and mushrooms to the broth, making it a chill-destroying dish.

The staff also gave us tons of different shelled goodies to taste throughout the meal, but we must admit that at that point, we were so full that we forgot what exactly we had. Suffice to say, Jiuyao Yipiao is a casual, down-to-earth restaurant elevated by creative, quality comfort food at reasonable prices. What's more: all of those delectable eats pair perfectly with their abundance of reasonably priced sake options.

Jiuyao Yipiao
Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-2am. 24 Xiaoyun Food Street, 15 Xiaoyun Lu (137 1835 1965)
酒肴一瓢：朝阳区霄云路15号霄云美食街后街24门

Want more like this? Perhaps try casual izakaya Man Yo in Jianguomen 
or hidden izakaya Shinya Shokudo in Courtyard 4.

Photos: Tracy Wang, courtesy of  Jiuyao Yipiao